Tevo Tarantula Dual E3d V6 X carriage (Suspension)

Description

Calibration Of 2Nd Nozzle Height In V2.0 (With The 2 V Slots) Proved Too Difficult, And Wasn'T Very Fast, So I Set Out The Design A Better Solution For Calibration. In This Design, The 2 Hot Ends Are Suspended On A Bracket (Namely: The Seat, Shown In Yellow), Thus Always Keeping The Distance Between The Nozzles The Same. Another Advantage Of This Design Is That, Because The Hotends Are Mounted On Preloaded Springs - If One Of The Hotends Smashed Into An Obstacle - It Will Just Hop Over It And Will Not Cause Damage To The Print/Nozzle. The Seat Is Suspended From Above With Two M3X50 Screws And 2 Springs I Poached From Cheap Clicky Ball Point Pens. In Order To Calibrate The Hotends Alignment, All That Is Needed Is To Turn One Of The Two M3 Screws To Tilt The Seat Accordingly. The Hotend Are Clamped To The Seat Using 4 M3 Screws, And 4 M3 Nuts That Are Pushed Into The Seat Using A Soldering Iron. Unfortunately, This Design Required Supports In Order To Print. In All Honesty- This Design Also Has A Few Drawbacks: -Nozzle Alignment Is A Little Confusing At First, Due To The Fact That The 2 Hotends Are Suspended Together, And Any Tightening/Loosening Of The Tension Screws (M3X50) Affects Both Hotends -Because The Hotends Are Suspended On Only 2 Springs, On The Lower Layers, The Hotends Sometime Have A Tendency To Flex A Little In The Y Direction. In My Experience, It'S Not A Problem Past The 1St Of 2Nd Layer And It Doesn'T Really Affect The Print Quality Much. Mainly An Observation. So In Order To Complete This Print, You'Ll Also Need: 2X M3X50 Screws 2X 10Mm Or Longer Springs From Clicky Ball Point Pens 6X M3 Nuts 2X M3X20 Screws (Or Shorter If You Want To Just Screw Them Directly Into The Plastic)

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