CR-10/10S/Ender3 FANG for 5015 Fan - Smooth Design
Description
<h3>UPDATES:</h3> <u>2020.05.23</u> Added from my Direct Drive smooth fang kit (see preview image): New variant with a reversed fan orientation. It also features vertical height adjustment (needed when using different hotends) and a cutout for full 5015 fan clearance. This variant might be interesting for those who also converted their printer to a direct drive and because of that don't have enough space behind the hotend. It prints without supports as well. Here's a link to my Micro Swiss Direct Drive - Smooth Fang kit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4389912 <u>2019.02.11</u> A fellow maker frankybuilds, modeled a new Ender 3 mount solution for my fang including versions with and without an EZABL attachment. It requires less parts and it seems very easy to print. I don't own an Ender 3 so I haven't tested it but it looks very promising. Please give it a go! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419869 <u>2018.10.16</u> If you'd like to use my fang design with an Ender 3 printer, please try the mount plate that D3Dorsett created here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3157597 <u>2018.09.16</u> I added an additional variant that features a cable holder. The bowden tube & cables touch the 5015 fan on top so this cable holder extension prevents them from sliding left and right during the movement of the x-axis. You don't need this cable holder but it keeps everything in place as well as neat & tidy. Check the images. You can lock the holder using the same type of screw as for the 5015 fan (M3x22) or with just a zip tie. ___________________________________ <h3>Short Description:</h3> I created this smooth air duct fang for the Creality CR-10/10S printers for those who also want to upgrade to a 5015 part cooling fan. You can use it with the air duct assembly made by ozfunghi, which can be found here: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763931">CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly</a> You will need the following parts from ozfunghi's set to use my design: - V2-FANG-oz-carriage-plate - V2-FANG-oz-40mm-duct - FANG-oz-carriage-plate-clip The assembly requires 3M screws. _________________________________ <h3>Detailed Description:</h3> I like the assembly set created by ozfunghi for its modularity and sturdiness. However after I printed his V2 Fang and ran my printer through various tests I noticed that it performed quite badly with overhangs due to the fang not pointing close enough to where the nozzle actually prints. I decided to upgrade to a 5015 fan and use ozfunghi's V3 fang but it doesn't have a 5015 mount. Also, since the V3 fang has steeper overhangs at the tip I wouldn't be able to print it anyway. So I decided to model a new fang with a 5015 mount from scratch. Instead of using boolean operations (the way ozfunghi's fang models are made) I modeled mine in one piece using sub-d modeling. This way the transitions of the shapes are smooth and this especially helps with the airflow (transition of mount to airduct, air divider). The tips of the fang look similar to ozfunghi's V3 fang but they are spread apart slightly more (helps remove harsh overhangs). They also point less at the nozzle itself but more towards the printed part. This fang also allows the use of a 40x20 extruder fan (in case you want to mount one), instead of 40x10 because there is more clearance space between the fan and the air ducts compared to ozfunghi's design. Check the comparisson photos regarding that in the comments section. Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out. I'm now able to print much better overhangs and get better detail in general. __________________________ <h3>Print Information:</h3> My design is optimized for printing <b>WITHOUT</b> supports, simply print it in the orientation of the file. The mount transitions to the air duct in a smooth slope without harsh overhangs. Even the "air divider" inside is printed as a bridge. I went through many iterations and test prints to get there. I advise to use a single layer brim for better bed adhesion. Make it 0mm distance to the part and give the brim 4-5 outlines. This way it will give the print more surface to stick to the bed while it's still easy to remove once it's printed. Further settings solely depend on how you want to print it or how well your printer is calibrated. I printed mine in PLA with 2 outer perimeters and 20% infill without any problems. You can print it in 0.2mm layer height but I recommend 0.15mm for a smoother surface and thus less air friction. Happy printing and please let me know how it works for you. If you find the time, please post your makes - I'd love to see them!
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