
Snapmaker Control Box
Description
<h2>I'm totally in love with my SnapMaker. But there are some issues I had to deal with for ease of mind.</h2> <b>First of all</b>, I never understood why the USB port was placed at such an inconvenient place. (On the controller, which is situated at the back of the machine). To insert my USB stick, take it out to upload other parts, and put it back in the machine, I had to really aim and fiddle well. Totally hated that. <b>Second</b>, the power input cable. It's hanging too much in the connection socket, which gave me the chills when I printed bigger parts. It would be a nightmare if the power dropped due to the cable sliding out the socket. <b>Third</b>, I have a LED strip attached to the X-axis, which had a switch....which I had to grab every time I had to switch on the light for my 3D printer. Solution: I've made a switchbox that perfectly fits at the frontend of the Y-axis, containing an USB port, and 2 power switches. (One for the snapmaker and one for the LED strip). The USB extension cable is 50 centimeters long which I've found to be just perfect for this solution. <b>USB cable:</b> https://www.conrad.nl/p/usb-20-aansluitkabel-delock-1x-usb-a-20-stekker-1x-usb-20-bus-a-05-m-zwart-1651192 </b>Switch:</b> https://www.conrad.nl/p/sci-wipschakelaar-r13-208a-02-print-0-i-250-vac-700952 I've bought an identical socket (female) and an identical connector (male) for the power supply at my local electronics store. To connect, I've let the original powerplug connect with the newly bought female socket, connected this to the switch, and ran it back by two wires connected to the new male plug which then goes into the powersocket of the snapmaker. In short: keep the original plug and socket from snapmaker, but put new male/female plug and socket with switch between those two.
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