Covers for Slim 12V 30A Power Supply with Fuses

Description

For a long time I always used the "standard" 12V/30A power supply for my 3D printers and laser cutters. For these I first made a [simple cover](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182462), later I added an [improved version](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235754), and finally developed a [version with an separate automotive fuses](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2602324) for each output connector. Recently I came across a more compact "mini" version of the same 12V/30A power supply which is roughly only half the size of the "standard" version, i.e. it measures only 222x69x40mm (LxWxH). Besides the smaller size and the lower price, I like in particular the fact that it has the 230V AC connector on the rear end well separated from the 12V DC connectors on the front end. So this projects uses the same approach I used in the above mentioned versions, but this time for the compact version of the power supply. At the AC end it provides a standard 3-terminal IEC320 C14 AC socket and a 15x10mm or 21x15mm KCD1 rocker switch. At the DC end it provides 12V output on 2 female Molex 19-09-2029 sockets and an optional 3-digit LED voltmeter. Each of the the 12V output terminals is protected with its own medium size automotive fuse. There are two holes on the top of the DC cover: the smaller one for the power-on LED (I used a small piece of transparent 3mm filament as an optical conductor to bring up the light from the LED on the bottom of the power supply) and the larger one to allow accessing the potentiometer for fine-tuning the output voltage. (It's also possible to unsolder the LED and the trimpot from the PCB of the power supply and to reposition them directly at the level of the holes - but doing this will void your warranty and is also potentially dangerous - so don't do it unless you are an expert!) The fact that the connectors are located on both ends also means two smaller covers instead of one bigger one - which makes them easier to print because of reduced tendency for warping. Each cover is attached to the corresponding end of the power supply by means of 4 M3x10 screws. For these, you will have to drill holes into the protruding aluminum walls. You will have the choice to secure the screws with M3 nuts inserted into the corresponding nut traps inside the plastic covers, or tap an M3 thread directly into the aluminum walls. If you choose tapping, you need to predrill 2.5mm, otherwise use 3mm drill for the holes through the aluminum. The provided OpenScad source file is fully commented and configurable. Ready-to-print STL files are provided with variants for the 15x10mm and 21x15mm switch versions of the AC cover and version with and without digital voltmeter for the DC cover.

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