Hypercube 300 Lite Carriage for Precision Piezo Orion and E3D V6
Description
I have a Precision Piezo Orion sensor on the way for my Hypercube 300 build. The Piezo Lite Carriage is designed for the older Piezo20 sensor. This remixes the Piezo Lite Carriage for compatibility with the Orion sensor. I've also included the other parts (sourced from the originating projects) needed to fully assemble the carriage. Print all of the STLs, with these exceptions: - Hypercube_300_Piezo_Carriage.repaired.stl is the carriage for the Piezo20 sensor and is modified and integrated in my design - Orion_Screw_Top.stl is integrated in my design - Pick either Orion_Groove_Clamp_3 (no support).stl or Orion_Groove_Clamp_3 (integral support).stl; you only need one - Pick either Hypercube_300_Orion_Piezo_Carriage.stl or Hypercube_300_Orion_Piezo_Carriage_Igus.stl, depending on whether you want the integrated bushings or Igus bushings. (In the renders, the carriage is red and the other needed parts are green.) This belt tensioner looks like it should work with this carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2092237 Update (24 Jan 19): shrunk the hole at the top to thread in a pneumatic fitting with an M5 thread, and added an Igus bushing variant, as I don't want to lose another two hours to sanding new bushings to fit the rods in my printer. Update (5 Feb 19): added a 4mm i/d x 4mm recess under the pneumatic fitting mount to hold one end of a 40-mm piece of Teflon tubing that extends into the hotend. When assembling the hotend, you won't need the collet and retainer clip that go on top of the heatsink to hold the tubing in place. I'd recommend cutting the tubing slightly long and trim it to fit. Update (10 Feb 19): the dimensions of the Igus-bushing variant are dialed in for printing on my Anet A8 with PETG filament. A new file, igus-sleeve-sizing-test.scad, is included so you can more quickly iterate through different sizes to find what's right for your printer and filament. Update (30 Jul 20): drill out the Igus bushing bores to 12.5 mm after printing. Also, it didn't take long to figure out that splitting the tubing path at the coupling was a bad idea; in addition to adding friction to the path, it makes unloading filament almost impossible. I've enlarged the hole in the top of the carriage to take the PC4-M10 (?) fitting bundled with the E3D V6 so that the tubing will pass all the way through to the heatbreak; I need to upload the revised files when I get a chance.
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