DP20V2A Power Supply case for the Stanley 014725R Organizer
Description
Update 2/6/2019: I received the parts for this today and everything fits. I've been trying to <a href ="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416074" >fit out</a> my Stanley 014725R organizer for electronics projects and decided to add another adjustable power supply. The size of this supply will be the same as a large bin for the organizer. I got some inspiration from seeing this thing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816188), and I used gpambrozio's customizer friendly thing here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:652558) as the starting point for the case. There is a big compromise on the power supply in order to fit it in the Stanley case however. Due to the low height requirement, I had to use the DP20V2A supply which has a max input voltage of 23V (not great). I'd prefer to have a power supply that could do upto 24V but most things I work with will only go to 12V anyway. I also have a 19V/1.8A wall wart that works perfectly with this. The knob also has to be replaced with the shorter version posted with this thing. The banana plug spacing should work with a dual jack but I don't have any dual plugs to verify that with (spacing is 0.75" center to center). The parts I used for this are: DP20V2A CV/CC Programmable Control Step-down Power Supply XL6009E1 DC-DC Adjustable Step-up Power Converter Module (this is used to supply the DP20V2A and I set the converter for ~20V since max input on the DP20V2A is 23V). DC 24V Brushless Cooling Fan 25mm 25x25x10mm - this will need to run at a lower voltage since max input is 23V (spec) but in actual use I run it at 20V (and it is pretty quiet at 20V too). I installed the fan to blow out of the case. 2x 4MM Banana Jack Panel Mount Connector (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-Terminal-Binding-Post-Socket-for-4MM-Banana-Jack-Panel-Mount-Connector-MET/272813873555) 1x DC 2.1x5mm panel connectors (cheaper on Ebay): Amazon Item "B078YP4CP6" (please copy and paste the item in the search field at Amazon, you can read why below) A fuse is a good idea as well. I did not install one on mine, but now that I have a small collection of inline minifuses, that is planned. <strong>Hardware Required</strong> 2x M3 x 6 mm screws 4x M3x25mm (or longer up to 28mm) screws - cap screws look best but are not required 6x M3 x 4mm x 4.3mm brass inserts Glue will also be needed for the inserts, unless they are heat set in place. The DP20V2A I have is a tight fit, and I was going to add some extra space around the bezel, but it really fits perfectly so unless folks have a problem getting it installed I will leave it as is. That said if you have a problem, first try cleaning the elephant foot from the opening, and if that fails let me know in the comments or PM. Another thing to note is that there have been a few minor changes to the model since I printed the one in the pic, however I don't think anything changed will cause a problem. The STP file is included for remixing. Just wanted to mention some info that may help in getting the M3 inserts installed. They should be melted in, but I don't have experience with that so have been installing the inserts using clear Gorilla Glue. My method is to screw the insert onto a 20mm or so M3 screw, just so it is a few mm threaded. Then I apply a thin layer of glue all the way around the insert. The screw is used to guide the insert into the hole, and then I can usually press it in by hand, but sometimes it requires a few taps to seat it. If it does not seem to go all the way in, then I would remove the screw used to seat it, and then install a screw from the other side and tighten that one down, to pull the insert to it's final position. Once that is done, I would remove the screw and allow it to dry. This method has worked well for me, and I have installed at least 50 inserts this way so far, without using the heat setting method. Parts are not oriented for printing, please adjust/rotate them to use minimal supports. I printed using 0.2mm resolution except on the knob which I used 0.1mm resolution. 1/23/2021 - I have removed any Amazon links, and instead provided the amazon item numbers in quotes. This was done as a small protest against the way Thingiverse edited my description, and installed their Amazon Affiliate links without notifying users that they were doing it. Sorry for the extra step of having to copy and paste the item numbers, but I believe they need to be clear with content creators about this. I did not originally post my own affiliate links here - they were "clean" Amazon links, but for some content creators here, the affiliate links are the only way they receive anything back for their work, and that avenue is now closed off. More info here: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/thingiverse/forums/site-issues-and-feedback/topic:49539
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