AMMO Pisspot Remix (fixed, split, sized)
Description
UPDATE: I have found filaments that look great. I had to get away from Amazon and pay a few more dollars, but it's worth it to me since it saves tons of time and material on painting. Base: Either 1.) Prusament Galaxy Black (currently backordered on Amazon or have fun with shipping direct from Prusa. But it looks AMAZING and hides all the layer lines and other printing artifacts). 2.) Atomic FIlament Black Marble PLA https://atomicfilament.com/collections/opaque-pla-filaments-1/products/black-marble-pla-filament Looks nice, and is a legit American brand. Slightly less pretty than Prusament to me, but still has a lot of the same benefits. Flame (tricky to find a good red): Atomic Filament Perfect Red PLA https://atomicfilament.com/products/1-kg-red-pla-filament I've tried 4 reds in person and scoured online reviews in order to find this nice of an actual red. Not watermelon red, not orangey red, but true bright red. Pisspots for days! Guaranteed 100% genuine work done by an Ammo troop who may be a little drunk (so hopefully I did it right). Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3180818 as requested. I have split the pieces into ways that I like to print them and included some useful scales of the original object since that was also requested. I did NOT design this and all glory should go to the Ammo troop who made the original. I uploaded a ton of files. Descriptions are as follows, all listed in file size order since I'm dumb and forgot to alphabetize them and am too lazy to fix it now (note: all models are "fixed" even if the name doesn't say so): 1.) Original Full Model Fixed - The original file run through Netfabb since I had some issues with it when I was splitting and resizing before I "fixed" it. Single STL contains full Pisspot and stand. 2.) Full PP No Stand - A Pisspot with the stand removed so that you can print them separately. 3.) Full PP No Stand Flat Bottom - How I like to print the full Pisspot. I ditched the stand and chopped the bottom off of the shell to make it flat. Reduces pieces and print time, but obviously it's not round anymore, so you do you. 4.) PP Flame - Cut the flame right at the top of the shell neck so you can print it as a different piece. Good luck finding a proper red PLA though, cause I'm still trying... Spray paint is always an option though. 5.) PP Shell - The rounded shell, simply cut from the flame. 6.) PP Shell Flat Bottom - Shell cut from flame with a flat base. Once again bypasses the need for a stand and removes the need to print support material to make the bottom curve work. 7.) Stand - The stand. Necessary for any of the non-flat-bottom prints if you want to display it in a balanced manner. Those are the basics, but all of them should also have different sizes, denoted in % of original model scale on all axes by an "s" prefix (ex: "PP Shell s150" is scaled uniformly by 150% of original model size, so it's friggin big). They come in s150, s50, s30, and unmarked. Unmarked are original size, AKA s100, but I forgot to add that and once again I'm way too lazy to update it now. Sizing guide is as follows: 1.) s150/150%: Comically large. Flat bottom version is like 15.25" tall and the full version is barely printable on something like a CR10 (baaaarely under that 400mm max Z). In two pieces w/ my standard profile on an i3MK3 it took like 45 hours to print both pieces of the flat bottom version. 2.) Unmarked/100%: Quite substantial. Fully printed flat bottom version is about 10" tall and certainly takes a good while to print. 3.) s50/50%: Nice desktop display. Still a decent size and prints in 4-5 hours for me. Throwing it on a guidon or something would be pretty cool. 4.) s30/30%: I dub it the "ornament" size. A few inches tall and once again easy to print the flat bottom version pretty quickly, about 1.5hrs apiece. I drill a 1/16" hole in the top of the flame and screw in loop made from twisted safety wire (honorably "procured" from Loaders years ago) then seal it in with some superglue. Makes a nice loop and then I usually print them some type of metallic color with Rustoleum because it looks neato for little finish work. Make a bunch and then hide them in a Loader or Nuke troop's office or something.
Statistics
Likes
9
Downloads
0