
Watch Winder
Description
I love the original design. This is a small remix of it. It uses the slim design and I also made a custom cutout for USB Micro connector in the base. I went different way for mounting the motor. I designed slots for square M3 nuts and used M3 screws instead of glue. I am uploading hex file for the ATTiny85 in case someone would like to flash the chip with it. Here are parts I sourced over the net: Motor + Driver: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273468051058 ATTiny85: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253076283749 USB Micro on Board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32867946438.html Prototype Board: https://www.ebay.com/itm/310673083084 I glued the USB Micro board in the slot of the base. Everything else is described in Simo_Dax's post on Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Watch-Winder-ATtiny85Stepper/ ATTiny85 can be flashed on Windows/Linux/Mac with avrdude. There are many tutorials on the web. Arduino Uno can be used as programmer. Example of my command line: avrdude -v -v -c avrisp -b 19200 -P /dev/cu.usbmodem14101 -pattiny85 -Uflash:w:/watchwinder.hex:i (watchwinder.hex was placed in the Mac root dir) I uploaded pictures of schematics and flashing with Arduino Uno that I found in the Instructables, just for convenience. Note the capacitor between ground and reset on Arduino as programmer. Flashing the chip did not work without it. Thank you simo_dax for very nice work. EDIT: Changed Watch_Winder_Plug UPDATE: I uploaded few more pics showing the circuit built on breadboard. It should help those people that are not very familiar with electronic drawings. First three pics (Arduino UNO with breadboard hat) shows my chip programming setup. The 10 micro F electrolyte capacitor is essential. Check the polarity of the capacitor. Last pic shows the complete wiring of the watch winder (without the micro USB connector). When building the circuit on some PCB, it is necessary to put the two capacitors (0.1 micro F ceramic and 10 micro F electrolyte) as close to the chip as possible. I also desoldered all the pins from the driver board and soldered wires directly in the holes where the pins were previously soldered.
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