ThinkInverse

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<h1>ThinkInverse</h1> Video: https://youtu.be/wyoi2fb9iE8 (a XXL-Version of my Geared Head of Feelings: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670124) <h3>There are people who haven´t nothing but gears in their heads. This motional picture is dedicated to these people!</h3> This is really a huge project and it takes some time to build it. It is inspired from Snilles <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13597">Gear Painting</a>. The main part is a big wheel of about 40 cm in diameter with an involute gear of 312 teeth in the backside. In front it shows different "good" feelings to symbolize good moods. This wheel turns clockwise. The second FeelingsWheel shows mostly bad feelings (but less than good ones) and turns in the opposite direction. Therefore I called this moving picture "ThinkInverse". The good feelings go in one direction, the bad ones in the reverse direction. The mechanic system consists mainly of two gear levels. All gears are designed with a modulus of 1.25 mm and all are unique related to their inner content. To achieve a smooth motion all gears are mounted with bearings (623ZZ bearings 3x10x4mm) on a platform. The platform itself consists of different parts as you can see in picture TheSpider.PNG. They get screwed together (Junction1 to_9). The whole mechanic is driven by a small 12V-motor on the backside of the picture in the lower left corner. The speed of the geared motor is 2 rpm. The picture is illuminated by LED strips inside the frame. See instructions below. Big FeelingsWheel: Because of the size of the main wheel I printed that in parts. The outer ring is made of 6 segments of the gear (FeelingsGearSegment.STL). Print these with support! They get glued together with the inner wheel (FeelingsWheelHalterInner.STL) and the six connectors (Verbinder.STL). The segments of the outer part of the main wheel will be covered (glued) with the parts containing the lettering (FeelingsWheelBigSection1 to_6). The cover of the inner ring of the main wheel is part FeelingsWheelHalterInnerCover.STL and does not contain letters. This is glued to the inner part of the main wheel. The Big Feelingswheel is driven by a hidden gear in the lower left corner and stabilized by three undriven gears of the same size. Small FeelingsWheel: The small Feelings wheel is driven by his axis. To achive that, a M5x40 mm hexagon head screw is used. Glue the screw head into the center of FeelingsWheel2.stl. The drive gear Gear05_80 has a cutout for an M5 self locking nut so that gear05, the small FeelingsWheel and the axis form a unit. Glue the cover with the bad feelings (FeelingsWheelKlein.STL) onto the outer side of the Feelingswheel2 part. Electronics: I used the same controller as in my other motional pictures (see <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2678043">Liquid Colours In Motion </a> or <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670124">The Geared Head of Feelings</a>). It can operate as master or slave, depending on the uploaded sketch. As master you can cycle through the modes by pressing the pushbutton (permanent on, permanent off, IR-motion detector controlled). If you use the slave sketch, the motion controller waits for a high signal on PIR input pin from another master controller to start motor and led illumination. The slave mode is only reasonable if you have more than one picture which should be controlled by one pushbutton or sensor. The motion detector is attached with small Nd-Magnets on the buttom side of the frame (drill 8 mm countersink holes in the Ribba-Frame and glue the magnets in these holes). Illumination: (Use this hacking decription at your own risk!) I used in my motional pictures the IKEA Ledberg for illumination. My design is for 12 V Ledberg. Unfortunatly since 2015 IKEA sells only the 24 V Version of LEDberg, so a little bit of hacking is necessary to use it with my controller: First you have to get access to the PCB-strip (where the LEDs are soldered to). Drill with a 1.5 mm drillbit into the small plastic nose which helds the LEDberg PCB in position and remove the plastic pin. Now you can take the PCB out of the plastic cover. With a small solder iron remove the 4300 resistor in the middle of the PCB strip. We don´t need that anymore. Remove carefully a 1 mm part of the paint at both sides of the strip (the continuous + and - rail) with a sharp knife so that the bare copper can be seen. Solder now two 390 Ohm resistors (1206 size fits perfect) from the pads of the former removed resistor to the outer strips (as can seen on the picture LEDbergModification.jpg). Take care of polarity: The end which is connected to + at first led must be soldered to - and vice versa.The white connector at the end can be desoldered either. We will solder wires directly to the PCB strips.Put the PCB back in the plastic cover and put a small portion of hot melt glue in the former "nose hole" to fix the strip in the plastic. So modified the ledberg strips can operate at 12 V now. BUT TAKE CARE: Connecting it to the provided power supply (included in the ledberg package) will damage the LEDs now! This power supply we will not needed anymore for this project! If you are not familiar with electronics and if you do not have the experience to make these modifications please leave it! You can use another 12 V LED-strip from another manufacturer either, so you don´t have to do the modification described here <h2>What you need:</h2> <ul> <li>1x Worm geared motor</li> <li>ball bearings MR83ZZ (3x8x3) </li> <li>M3 hexagon socket countersunk head screws</li> <li>M3 hexagon socket button head screws </li> <li>M3 nuts </li> <li>small washers (6 mm! outer diameter)</li> <li>3x bearings MR115ZZ (5x11x4)</li> <li>ISO4017 M5x40</li> <li>M5 self-locking nut and washers<li> <li>1x Frame Ribba 50 cm width (IKEA)</li> <li>2x Set LED-illumination LEDberg 12V</li> <li>2x sheet of AlDibond 50 x 50 cm of 3 mm thickness</li> <li>1x PIR-Motion detector (<a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/189">Adafruit)</a></li> <li>1x Circuit board attached (feel free to build one). </li> </ul> Press the bearings in the gears. See the pictures for details how to assemble the gears and the mount platform. Print the parts beginning with a "w" in white colour, the ones beginning with a "b" in black and the ones beginning with "r" in red. Have Fun With It!

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ThinkInverse

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