WLToys 12428 Front Suspension Parts (Updated)

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Hi guys, If Thingiverse is as slow for you as it is for me, consider looking for your 3D parts at Cults 3D: https://cults3d.com/en/users/WrenchToDrive/creations Update: Front_Left_Arm_V3 should be accurate. The old version was 1mm too long overall and the shock hole position was measured off a dirt cheap metal arm (oops) that does not match the stock arm (beware). Made a tweak to the shaft orifice cutout thingy, but I make no promises on perfect clearance through entire range of travel because that is the least of the problems with the suspension on this car. OK, not really (but a little bit, right :^), I just haven't printed it due to the great plastic shortage of COVID 2020, and probably won't because then I'd have to install it and test it, and the thought of that just saps my will to live right now. Ok, not really, but it saps my will to post anything to Thingiverse or elsewhere. Hey, look at that, in my proof read I notice that the imperfect range of travel is a known issue and that some grinding is required... WLToys 12428 Front suspension Parts. Front left suspension arm (V2 stronger, V3 accuracy issues fixed), caster block and steering knuckle to replace the stock parts. The parts are set up for ease and quality of printing (strength). I didn't have to modify any screw holes but your mileage may vary. Edit: You might want to try PLA. I made a front arm for my Arrma Outcast 4S that has held up well despite being printed in PLA and all I did was crank up the walls, infill and heat. The steering knuckle is an updated version of the one that I'm running with better bearing cups. You'll need to do a little trimming with an exacto knife to get full steering range. The suspension arm needs a little bit of trimming to clear the steering knuckle to allow full range. There are built in supports in the caster block and steering knuckle that you will need to remove with an exacto knife. I built them with a .2 gap and they printed great for me. I had no trouble removing the supports but your mileage may vary. Be careful, please. (Supports and fill give me nothing but trouble with PETG, so I build them for stuff like this and it saves a lot of time) I've run mine in -10 Celsius and it has survived light jumping and crashes so far. As always, use at your own risk. Feb 12, 2018 updated suspension arm to V2. The original broke on a moderate but high torque impact, destroying the inner hinge bits. The inner hinge is stronger and thicker and I moved down the shock actuator mount hole to make the part thinner and slightly altered the drive shaft cutout. Wrench to drive or drive to wrench?

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