The Recalibrator - Caliburn Mod
Description
Deprecated - This project has various design issues and is no longer maintained, but may contain interesting or useful bits. My current Recalibrator is setup with a magwell from the Caliburn Carbine, modified to fit the custom bolt I use. This design has a few issues in the field. - Use of triple nylon rail tubing leads to less rigidity on the front/upper. - Bolt system does not fully achieve my goals for better airflow, due to durability concerns on the O-ring groove. - Stock way too short. This design is no longer worked on nor maintained, since the Talon Claw is a better alternative. Recalibrator Revision 1: Do not print/build unless you're already familiar with the blaster and/or experienced with both nerf modding and 3D printing, and have the prerequisite tools. Requires custom-cut priming bars to achieve the most efficient form factor. Summary: I edited the Caliburn to meet some of my needs, and made the following changes: - Shortened design for ease of use in CQB and shorter draw length. Draw reduced by 31mm to reduce excess air when firing. - Compatible with full length darts. - Compatible with all native Caliburn springs, but they may need to be cut down or will have a lot of precompression. - Addressed air leaks in the ram base and plunger O-rings which cause problems. (Very similar to what EnderSavesTheDay did in a different Thingiverse Remix.) Unfortunately haven't fully addressed the ram tip seal yet. (Slug's own ramrod should work but you may need more O-rings.) - Replaced ram rod with 1/2" PEX as an experiment to reduce weight/cost. Unfortunately, this part needs work to improve the ram tip seal. Instructions: - Print the parts as usual. Orient the parts properly (I might fix that later, might not), Stick to 2 to 3mm shells and at least 20%, or 90%-100% for some parts like the sear. At least for serious prints. - Print the plunger in ~2mm shells at 20% or less, in ABS to reduce its weight. PETG/PLA will have about the same weight. - Do not print the parts for the ram tip unless you're using it (see below). - Do not print the parts for brass unless you're using a brass breech (duh). - The thumbhole is not used and I'm not going to bother designing for it since it'll break compatibility with the grip insert. - Some portions of the hardware kit should be reduced by 31mm or 1-1/4" - The priming rails (nylon tubes by default, or alu/carbon fiber) and the priming bars, as well as all threaded rods being used. (Some of them can be left at the stock length if you're not using takedown.) - The holes and threads for the priming bars stay the same, but the priming bar's length should be reduced if possible. - My particular Recalibrator does not have these hardware kit changes, thus there is excess length on the front shown in the picture. - I recommend a 16" or 18" .509 aluminum barrel for maximum performance on workers. Use a shorter ram, and possibly increase the bore of the dart entry area via machining or transition barrel. Otherwise, stock .527 and stock ram will still work, but the ram base I have is modified for a better seal. - For full length darts, you may need a stronger spring or better seal, due to the reduced plunger volume. - Assemble the blaster as usual. The majority of the parts and hardware are the same. I use epoxy on the separate portions of the ram to plug some of the air leaks. - Add plenty of good grease to the plunger system - this is mandatory. Re-greasing will need to be done rather frequently due to the increased seal. - Front accessories such as Railgasm, Doom, etc. either need to be edited manually, or the full length front would have to be used. I do not plan on addressing this in the meantime but might try one to improve rigidity in the future. Ram: - All rams are compatible - use Slug's metal ramrod with the stock .527 barrel if you're not feeling adventurous. - The rambase I included only has minor edits to improve the seal and add a very small amount of material to the top. I did not address the durability and threading concerns present in the ram base. Though I suspect these issues are unlikely to manifest unless higher spring loads are used, or if the blaster is used aggressively. - My version of the ram uses 1/2" PEX to reduce costs and weight. I currently use a printed insert to hold the O-ring (PusherFront.stl), but this design increases airflow constriction. I plan to fix this someday in the future. Additionally, the seal isn't so great due to how easily the O-ring gets damaged. (Unsure of a solution, maybe tiny amounts of a specific grease.) If you end up using this solution, use epoxy to seal the printed O-ring holder into the PEX tube, or it will leak from there. - In the future, a lathed 1/2" PEX ram would probably be ideal. The reduced weight of PEX puts less stress on the weak points of the ram base, but make sure the part is straight. Step not available for Ra-stl_Grip5t.stl and Ra-stl_RAIL_TOP-SHADWELL-MONO.STL. The step file for Grip5t was outdated and did not have the latest updates, so I went by a polygon edit. I did the same for the top rail piece for the shadwell/monolithic version. a_DartJamA.stl is only needed if you're using my experimental NAKM - Not A Katana Mag. (A project which I will fix and update once I get this Caliburn setup how I like it.) An additional edit to the captive nut spreader may be needed which I did not do. Object positions in the step file are a mess since I'm still trying to figure out how to do it correctly. My apologies in the meantime. I made edits referencing Remzak's brass part dimensions. However, these brass parts also include the O-ring fix I did to the ram base. Minor Fixes Todo: - Adjust ram tip design to be less constricting on airflow, and O-ring profile for more reliable seal. - Adjust the sear to fix catching issues caused by the default sear profile.
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