Davy Lamp
Description
Davy Lamp: DIY Perks over on Youtube... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27zBr74NuKU ...came up with a clever idea for a retro lamp and bluetooth speaker. Nothing wrong with it at all but I wanted to see if I could do better. The parts list and build is pretty much as the video with the following differences: -A 3" HiFi speaker for even better output -Somewhat different 3D parts to accommodate, and to add to the retro aesthetic -A larger glass also to suit, this is: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premier-Smoked-Glass-Highball-Cocktail-Cold-Drinks-Beer-Tumbler-Sleek-Design/273107653072?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 ...the one I used. -The addition of some LED's so there's a slight flicker timed with the music -Some Copper paint and primer The Build: 1) Print out all your 3D parts. Do note one of the rods is ever-so-slightly off-set to help key the parts together, be sure you've taken care to fit the parts correctly. 2) Slide the lower ring, in to which the speaker fits down the rods until it locks in to place. It's a fairly tight fit but will go, just don't snap those rods! 3)Fit the speaker in to it's place. At this point you may find it won't fit between the rods depending on tolerances. Don't worry; snap ONE of the rods off where it meets the wider part the lower ring fits to. The speaker will now fit in from the side - once the whole thing is assembled said snapped rod won't affect the look or integrity of the lamp. 4) Slide the upper ring down the rods. This one should be much less tight, it will slide easily if you have the orientation of your rings on the rods correct and not if you haven't. 5) Take your glass and push the open end in to the upper ring and then all the way in until it's pressed against the back of the speaker. Note: The fit wants to be firm but not so tight you risk breaking the glass. Sand the inner rim of the upper ring to suit. 6) The rods will likely bow out a little as a result of pressure from the glass, this is intended. Fit the cap piece over the top so the 'base' of the glass fits inside and the ends of the rods lock within their own holes. Rod length may need adjusting depending on the glass you have bought. Now you know how it all goes together, take it all apart again and refer to DIY Perks video for the construction of the electronics. In the case of my version there is a sufficient hole running from the base through each of the rods for wiring. The 'filament' will also fit but do adjust the width of DIY Perk's design to fit between the glass and the speaker - attachment can be either to the speaker or the rings housing it. Note: The electrical contacts for the speaker may be too large for it to neatly fit inside the glass. If so, and probably for aesthetics anyway, snap the plastic mount from the speaker but don't damage the wires! For the addition of a flickering effect in time with the music wire a miniature LED strip in to the terminals of the speaker and glue as low down on the outer body of the speaker as you can - you want it to be positioned below the level of the printed retaining ring. Note: The wattage of your chosen amplifier, the voltage of the LED's, and the brightness all need to be taken in to consideration. -As a minimum you don't want to fry the LED's -I'd suggest you also want them to be fairly dim to add 'ambience' to the lamp when music is being played not to be flashing like a beacon. Some experimentation with the addition of a resistor wired in series with the LED strip may be needed. Tips: Once you understand how the wiring goes together I'd suggest taking it apart one last time so you can prime and paint the plastic pieces. I'd suggest some copper-effect paint would be nice, don't go bananas with the sanding - layers of primer + paint will cover a multitude of sins and as we're going for a retro look a few imperfections will add to that. If you wish, to give the result a beaten copper look, load the .stl files in to an app such as Meshlab - under filters->cleaning and repairing you will see an option for reducing the number of vertices... ...I'd suggest going for a value of about 20 and repeatedly clicking that until the mesh count has dropped far enough for the polygons to obviously show but not so far that you've compromised the shape. Some experimentation will be needed. With copper paint over the top you will have a rather nice beaten metal appearance that as a bonus will also serve to hide any blemishes.
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