FPV Pan Tilt gimble

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I got the idea for this from seeing the original version of this here. Thanks for the inspiration Mark! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513231 <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xTr6uoyEzS8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> I’m building an Ansley Peace drone and wanted a pan/tilt to fit the front of the plane. I decided I wanted it to be enclosed and kind of eyeball looking. This could be used as an FPV gimbal on a plane or quad, what I intended to use it for. With a little rework to the cover it be great for a robot or just about any thing. It’s a tad limited by the ball joints. Mine didn’t have as much working radius as I hoped for. Shop around and find better one I guess. It’s designed around a Runcam Owl Plus. Not sure what all it’ll fit. Throw a comment out with a link to a mechanical drawing of your micro cam and I can see if I can squish it in. For this you need: 2 SG90 servos or equivalent some 3 mm screws: 2 10mm 2 15mm 1 20mm 1 25mm 1 40mm 1 50mm the 40 and 50 need to have thread all the way to the head. some 3mm nuts A camera… duh…. Take the 40 and 50 mm screws and cut the heads off. Put a nut on the screw and then cut the head off. Then back the nut over the part you cut. This will help fix the threads where you cut them. Use the 10 and 20 mm screws to attach the ball links to the cam mount. I had to take a piece of tape and tape the wires flat against the cam to keep them off the ball link. It’s a tight fit. Also, use the back that’s flat. It wont fit with the two little ears one. Mount the cam to the cam mount. Put a nut on the 25 mm screw and thread it all the way to the head of the screw. Put that screw through the hole on the servo base and put nut on it. But don’t tighten it. Leave it really lose. Attach the servos to the servo base. Center them and attach the servo arms. Thread the 25mm screw onto the center ball link. Hold it so the part the bolt threads into is straight up and down (center it.)You want to adjust it so the end of the paddle parts are past the center point on the cam mount,. but not past round part the bolt threads into. Tighten the nuts to hold it centered. Take the 40 mm threaded rod you made and install a rod end on one end. Thread it into the ball link on the cam mount. Use a 15 mm screw and nut to attach the ball link to the servo arm. You want it so that the ball link is centered and even with the center ball link. You may need to adjust the length of the rod to get it right. Go little bits at a time. Removing length is easy. Adding it sucks….. Repeat with the other side. Adjust it so when the servo arms are centered the cam is pointing straight out. Centered up/down and left/right. Glue the front cover to the cam mount. There are two little alignment marks to help. In the pics up top, they are highlighted them in red. I just used super glue. Glue it together and give the glue some time to dry, set, what ever….. To make it work you have to mix the two channels together. Testing it I used the AIL and ELE channels. On my DX8 the mixing looks like this: ELE > AIL RATE: 100% 100% OFFSET: 0% TRIM :INH SW:ON AIL > ELE RATE: -100% -100% OFFSET: 0% TRIM :INH SW:ON If the servos twitch on the extents, your trying to over travel the mount. On my DX8, if you adjust the servo travel, you only adjust that servo. Kind of messes up the geometry and one side moves more than the other. What I wound up doing was use the dual rates to control the end points. Kept the servos traveling even. But reduces the throw. Just leave it to “SWITCH: ON” so they are always enabled. "THE BEER-WARE LICENSE" (Revision 42): https://www.thingiverse.com/kwg08/ wrote this file. As long as you retain this notice you can do whatever you want with this stuff (for non profit uses only.) If we meet some day, and you think this stuff is worth it, you can buy me a beer in return.

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