Creality 1.1.5 Silent board on the ENDER 2
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If you find this somewhat useful to you, please leave a like ! This is not a *Thing* per se but a how-to that describes how I've managed to upgrade my Ender 2 with the Creality 1.1.5 silent board, which is supposed to be used with the Ender 3/3S/5. **The trickiest part is the LCD**, as the AUX connector is not fully compatible. I've used Chris Riley's Marlin files as a starting point : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2126G4oO30 In short you need to select "Minipanel" for the LCD. **Basics :** The board change is really similar to the Ender 3s, you should definitely see Chris's video on the subject : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZGACFconHI **Ender 2 differences :** - All the screws that suport the board are compatible except the bottom-left one near the AUX port. I've designed an adapter piece that is attached here. If like me you install it after the fact, you will have to snip the small peg, or let it break when forcing it below the board anyway. - If you have no part cooling fan, you can plug the hotend and controller fan in the two fan ports of the board, and activate an automatic cooling when the hotend reached 50°C. This is done by setting pin "4" in configuration_adv.h , and setting "-1" where you find "4" in the pins_sanguinolulu_1_1 file. - If you have a part cooling fan installed, you'll have to snip the connectors and directly connect both the hotend and controller fans to the "always on" port of the board, which is the one closest to the power supply input. - The AUX port is not compatible, and does not allow the LCD to work out of the box, but the missing signals are available on the ICSP port just next to it. - There is no connection for the power switch, but one could devise an easy replacement of the switch by a push button connected to one of the reset pins. **Solving the LCD:** - You will need a strip with 10 leads "Dupont" connectors, female on both side. 30cm is great. - Split that in 2 halfs with 5 leads in each. - Observe the 2 images : **SCK** and **MOSI** are present on the Ender 2 *AUX port* but missing on the Ender 3 *AUX port*. Those signals are to be worked around by a connection to the **ICSP** port. *the numbers on my schematics might have no sense, and it does not matter, just look at the slot at the top to find the proper orientation* - Following the schematic with green wires, attach the 8 standard wires from the LCD to the AUX port, and connect the SCK and MOSI signals to ICSP - *DONE !* you've saved a sleepless night and a lot of frustration :) Enjoy ! ** All credit for those excellent tutorials go to Chris Riley ** , but it looks like I was the first to install the Silent 1.1.5 board on an Ender 2. Those TMC2208 are fantastic ! *I've also included the custom* **_Bootscreen.h** **Below some Marlin config details for the setup without an addtional part cooling fan** Set **E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN** in file **Configuration_adv.h** <blockquote>/** * Extruder cooling fans <BR> #define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN 4 //-1 </blockquote> Occurences of **FAN_PIN** in file **pins_SANGUINOLULU_11.h** <blockquote> // Heaters / Fans #if ENABLED(LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2) <BR> #define FAN_PIN -1 // Uses Transistor1 (PWM) on Panelolu2's Sanguino Adapter Board to drive the fan <BR> #endif <BR>...<BR> #if MB(AZTEEG_X1) || MB(STB_11) || ENABLED(IS_MELZI) <BR> #define FAN_PIN -1 // Works for Panelolu2 too <BR> #endif </blockquote>
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