HEAT/COLD RECOVERY - INLET/OUTLET FAN - WITH ARDUINO CONTROL
Description
HEAT / COLD RECOVERY INLET/OUTLET FAN - WITH ARDUINO CONTROL WARNING! Do not use this system in rooms heated by a stove or a fireplace! Be aware - Heat Recovery Ventilation Unit - may affect the good function of a stove or a fireplace located in to the same room, smoke may come out in to the room - during extraction cycle! Wall ventilator with an integrated heat/cold recovery system. Additional, unit can be used as a passive humidity stopper ( see below). UPGRADE - To facilitate temporary mounting (or a permanent one for those with thin walls) on a window frame, see "window lock" and "out base window" files. Can be used on any season . Exchange warm-cold & cold-warm without any additional alterations. It uses the ARDUINO as a controller for the TWO fans - mounted back to back - first one for 30 seconds - in one way, and then, the second one - in opposite direction, for other 30 seconds, and so on... As a heat recover system - it use a "marble filter" - glass balls with diameter of 4 to 10 mm. It will require about 2 - 4 kg of glass balls... and yes... you need balls for this project! :) As a cheaper version, instead of glass balls - use river rocks, 6 to 10mm in diameter, so the air flow will not be restricted. Wash and boil those rocks before use! If it is desire to control the humidity - for those living in warm and humid place ... instead of the glass filter use a filter made of silicon dioxide, known as silica gel. WARNING - use only silica gel with out the humidity marker additives as Cobalt(II) chloride, what is toxic. On first step of the work cycle - the air is evacuated ,and when it pass through this filter, a percentage of the heat/cold is load in to the glass balls. On second step when fresh air is introduced in to the room, this air took the heat/cold from the glass filter, reducing the energy normal lost during a classic ventilation - as using a window. A low noise computer fan can run the system continuously, and will suffice to keep the air in your room fresh and healthy. On front and back of the glass filter are two partitions design to accommodate HEPA filters. The HEPA filters can be replaced relatively easy, and glass filter can be easy removed for periodical wash and clean. A strip of UV lights can be used to cover on inside walls of glass filter chamber - and to create an antibacterial UV filter, what will purify the air ... anyway... this can work also without UV ... System comes with adapters for 140, 120 and 92mm fans. Regular 12V computer fans can be used in tandem with an Arduino. Currently nothing was design to accommodate the Arduino, probably the "brain" will be mounted on a separated box, near the power supply outlet, in order to avoid any damage if condensation will be created during the heat exchange, or a new IN COVER with a "electronics" chamber will be design. And you have to program your own arduino, use the "two LED blink" like program. Make it short and painless! Do not be ashamed to use the "controversial" command "delay"! :) Not familiar with Arduino coding... no problem; have a look at this lesson: http://www.toptechboy.com/arduino/arduino-lesson-3-simple-led-circuit/ and to power up the motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG5vw6P9iY4 I recommend using the 30 seconds in - 30 seconds out cycle, with 3 seconds delay between them, however, you can decide and test what is the best time for you. The goal is not to lose energy in to the air refreshing process. A standard air vent tube - 125mm with 2mm thickness - (unit have 120mm exterior diameter) - can be used as a wall penetration sleeve - tube need be install and wall repair complete, before installing the unit. Sample of glass balls required for the glass filter: https://www.amex-lab.ro/sticlarie/bile-de-sticla.html Few guidance steps to install the Unit Before start printing, keep in mind that some of the parts have to be mounted outside, therefore - expose to UV and all the rest of the external factors you can find into the book: rain, snow, wind… so... I strongly recommend printing at least those parts in ASA. You should want those parts to last… therefore - make them stronger… if not 100% infill at least make the walls thicker… Unit is design to adjust based on your wall thickness. Ensure you print the right parts! Before start poking holes in your walls, ensure the rightful owner is agreeing with that (tell your mom and dad that you are cracking a hole in their lovely house!)… and ensure no structural beam and column are going to be damaged during this process and check if any electrical cables or gas/water lines are near your intended place for the hole! Ensure this operation does not brake any local rules and regulations regarding building facade modification. As a back up plan ... see the update with window mount system! Ensure you have access to drill the hole. (For a concrete wall, a special machine and cutting tool is required to be installed ;), for a brick wall – a regular carbide hole-saw and a strong drill machine will suffice – hole must be min 125mm). For wood walls... call Johnny! ... "Here's Johnny!" A 125mm 2mm wall thickness air vent tube – need to be install in to the wall. Need to repair the hole inside and outside – ensure you have easy access for this operation. Parts are secured to the wall using with 8-10mm concrete/brick dowel pins and D 3.9mm screws; ensure you have easy access for this operation. If the building has an exterior isolation use longer screws - so the dowel pins are secured in to the wall. Install the OUT TUBE with the OUT COVER BASE – from outside – IN TUBE with the IN COVER BASE – from inside – work the thread until unit is secure. Do not over tight it! Ensure is in the desired position. Mark the dowel pins holes. Remove parts; drill and install the dowel pins. Reinstall same parts. Secure the OUT COVER BASE and OUT TUBE with 3.9mm countersink screws. Install the OUT COVER. (If you are not able to secure the out parts to the wall using screws, is ok; ensure the unit is thigh when you make the final assembly...and... it will do! I hope! :) ) Secure the IN COVER BASE WITH 3.9mm countersink screws. Remove the IN TUBE and install on it all filters – HEPA and GLASS. Reinstall the IN TUBE. Secure the IN TUBE with 3.9mm countersink screws. Install the FAN ADAPTER, FANS and IN COVER. Installation is complete. Hopefully you do not mount this unit in a place that you will bump into it all the time! :) All parts are check for naked edges or errors - therefore ... all are going to be printable! If the design is good or if the parts are going to fit... that's another story! Design to print without support ... mostly... except for the parts what need support :) By Costa
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