Dual color acrylic shield box (Used for Cyberpunk 2077 logo)

Description

Greetings, so the last few weeks I worked on an idea I had; which was to create a neonish looking shield for my most anticipated game, Cyberpunk 2077. A simple laser engraved acrylic plate + some lights under it would be fine for the job, but as it is; the original Logo is mainly made out of two colors: yellow and cyan. To honour that composition I thought of a way to make a simplistic shield that would glow like the rendered version and quickly found the solution: Just use two LED strips instead of one and split the actual rendered Logo into two parts: Front with the yellowish Text and Back with the cyanish Outlines. Combined this gives and amazing effect, looking like it's one acrylic plate glowing in two colors. Black magic right? *Side note: The picture I took won't do it justice, it looks super cool in person* I tried to make this as open source as possible so anyone interested can recreate this. **Note:** The name and logo "Cyberpunk 2077" is property of CD Project Red. I used it solely for this non-commercial project. What you need to make it yourself: ========================== - 3D printer (or someone who could print it for you) > I created two different options, first being the solid Cover+Base which require a large volume printer because of its size. Around 300x300mm should be fine if rotated by 45°. > Second is a split version of the Cover+Base which you have to glue together when done with printing. This version works just as fine, but you will see the separation line between the two parts. - Laser engraver + 300x100x4mm acrylic plates (or someone who can do that for you) > I uploaded the files I created from the logo (The black and white ones). The images are sized to match the actual 300x100mm plate and should fit perfectly if done correctly. - Soldering iron - Components (See list of my used components at the Bottom): >- Slim adressable LED strips (4mm wide max). I used 5V WS2812C-2020/144LEDs/m from aliexpress which worked fine. You'll need at least a total of 600mm in length. >- Arduino Nano Every (Normal Nano works fine too, but you should have one with the pins removed, we don't need em) Optionally you can use chinese knockoffs. >- Wires with at least 0.32mm² or 22 AWG. If you happen to only have smaller diametres, you could use 0.2mm² or 20AWG. I strongly advice not to go any lower than that. Bigger is always an option. >- Small resistor of 300-500Ohms (I used 470 because those were laying around, it doesn't matter much) >- Optional: A capacitor of at least 1000uF with higher than 5V rated voltage. You wouldn't really need this, but if using a cheap powersupply the capacitor helps with spikes. If you do want to use one, I highly recommend buying a quality one like from Nichicon, and beware of polarity. >- Standard DC mountable female socket (5.5x2.1mm) you get them everywhere for a few cents. Mine has an outer diameter of around 7.8mm. If yours happen to be different, you can increase the hole size within fusion360. >- 5V DC power supply with standard DC jack (5.5x2.1mm). I'd choose one with at least 2A output. At around 65% brightness, the whole setup draws around 3.6W. Don't buy the cheapest one. Instructions: ========= **1.** Print either the solid cover+base or the two split cover+base parts. (In case you print the split parts, glue the parts together and let it dry) >I provided my fusion 360 file, in case you want to make changes or increase tolerances etc. I tried to keep it as clean as possible. Important: When exporting from fusion 360, make sure you set every other item to invisible, not just the groups. This a bug in fusion 360. **2.** Get your 300x100mm acrylic plates engraved using the two provided files "CP2077 Acryl Logo Blue Back- Mirrored" & "CP2077 Acryl Logo Yellow Front". >Additional side note: Usually (at least I got told) the image is engraved mirrored on the backside, so when you watch the plate front faced, the engraving is on the counterside. Make sure this is the case, otherwise you have to mirror both the front and the back file image. Reason is, for the best effect, the engravings should be as close together as possible (to minimize parallax) so when you combine them, the engravings are facing each other. **3.** Cut your LED Strips. With the 144LEDs/m you should have two strips with each containing 45 LEDs. (15 segments, 3 LEDs each) Glue them centric onto the base. > In case you derive from that number, update the parameter later in the arduino program. **4.** I recommend flashing the arduino now, although you can do it later. >**4.1** If you don't already have the [Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software), download it now. >**4.2** Install the [NeoPixel library by Adafruit](https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel). >**4.3** Download the file "DualColor_RGB_strip.ino" from my uploaded files >**4.4** Open it in Arduino IDE, make sure you select Arduino Nano Every in "Tools->Boards". >**4.5** In case you do not have exactly 90 LEDs, change the NUM_LEDS parameter on line 3 accordingly. >**4.6** Connect your Arduino Nano Every to your pc via micro usb and choose the correct COM Port under "Tools->Port". >**4.7** Upload the program to your Nano Every. **5.** Wire everything up according to my provided Fritzing schematic, use the cable management rings on the base. >Side note: Since we use thin LED strips, it can be tricky to solder the wires without creating a short, so take your time and use a multimeter to check for shorts after wiring is done. **6.** If you haven't flashed the arduino yet, do so now. >**ATTENTION**: After wired up, do not plug the arduino to your pc without the power supply attatched. If you plug in USB first, the arduino will try to power the LEDs which draw way more current than the arduino could handle. You risk burning it. **7.** Test if everything works and let it run for a while, check for hotspots (on the power supply too!) etc. > **Note:** LEDs can get pretty hot, which is also a reason why I turned down the brightness. With full brightness I could measure around 78°C beneath the strip which was a bit too hot for my taste. At 65% brightness it stays under 60°C which is totally fine. **8.** Put the cover on and your acrylic plates in. You're all set-up. Links to components I used: ===================== Some links are from websites located in germany, but should give you an idea. ____________________________________________________________ *Those are no affiliate links, I chose them solely from what fitted best* >[Arduino Nano Every](https://store.arduino.cc/arduino-nano-every) >[Power supply](https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07HSPT57Y/) >[Female DC Socket](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32883658107.html) >[Wires](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32984086811.html) >[470Ohm resistor](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32835766027.html) >[Capacitor](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32547443029.html) >[4mm LED strip](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32969220498.html) >[Custom engraving on 30x10cm Acryl](https://www.technologs.de/shopware/acrylglas-schild/foto-gravur-individuell-ohne-beleuchtung?number=10-26640.12) >>Located in germany, ships worldwide. You might find someone closer to you. Final words: ========= So that's it. I tried to describe everything as good as possible so people who are interested can recreate it with ease. If anythings missing, I made some errors or you have some additions etc. let me know. And share your makes!

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