3D Printable Jet Engine, motorized - remix

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This build is a remix of Rolumix’s motorized version which itself is a remix of CATIAV5FTW’s original. I have made the following changes: • Enclosed the front bearings fully • Opened a window into the rear strut • Added alignment features to items that were simply screwed together on flat faces • Beefed up the internal motor coupling to suit our material • Hollowed several parts out to suit our 2 material MJP printer • Added another piece at the front for a nacelle nose. I have not actually made this piece as it’s too large for our printer. I’m going to have to devise a way to split it if I choose to make it, but the model is impressively large without it. • Added modeled threads for screws directly into plastic. The original models included shim rings at certain points next to the bearings to adjust the spacing during assembly to eliminate rubbing. I needed different shims to get ours to run freely. When it got damaged and I had to replace parts with new ones in a slightly different material, I had to change the shims again. I have not included ANY shims in this version. You will just have to assemble it and see what yours needs, so I won’t lead you down any false paths you might just have to throw away anyway. Purchased Parts I used plastic bearings with stainless or glass balls. They run very free and loose to minimize strain on the motor. The main bearings are trade # 6204 and the secondary bearings are trade # 6003. The motor and gearbox come from Pololu.com – item # 3252. It’s a 12V motor with 34:1 reduction. We have a variable power supply attached to it and run it at 3V for display. If you want a nice SLOW rotation for display, you will want an even higher gear reduction – I would if I had to get a new motor, but this one is impressive at 12V! The bulk of the assembly uses M2.5x8 button head screws, thin nuts (1.6mm) and .5mm washers on both sides and they are JUST long enough. M2.5x10 would be safer, but leave more screw sticking out the nut than I liked. The motor mounts with M3x6 flat head screws. The shaft screws together with M3x12 flat head screws… you’ll need a long Allen wrench. I used all stainless steel screws, nuts and washers. For the electrics, I used a socket to match one of the tip choices on the variable power supply cord and a simple DPDT rocker switch (only using it as a DPST) to completely disconnect the motor when it’s off. You will want very small connectors to use between the stand and the rear strut and between the rear strut and the motor. I have left the ‘panel’ on the stand blank so you can make holes to suit the items you use.

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