Artemis Starship Bridge Simulator Control Panel V2 (Weapons)

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This is my first V2.0 Control panel for Artemis. Right now it is only Weapons and it will likely only be weapons for awhile, but here it is if you want to use it. If you want to know more about Artemis: Starship Bridge Simulator, take a look at this link; https://artemisspaceshipbridge.com/ This is a fully 3d printed control panel. It was designed to fit in my homemade consoles, so they may not be usable you you as is. However they could be a good starting point to make some custom control panels if you are so inclined. ***Edit: I wanted to isolate the lighting for the individual types of ordinance and the tubes, but due to the design of the top plates I was getting a lot of light bleed over. I Have modified the top plates to include a groove to insert the light breaks around the tubes and ordnance name. you can either print the light breaks separately in an opaque material and insert them into the top panel or you can print the bottom to include the light breaks and then print out the insert in an opaque material and insert it into the top piece. Both should work. Alternatively, if you dont care about isolating the individual cells from light you can just print the version of the bottom that does not have the light break. /Edit The top and bottom are sit into the control panel frame and then are secured with m4 or 8-32 screws (either works fine); there should be enough room for up to 2" of screw, but you should only need about .5" of screw. The frame is designed so that the screw will create a thread, so no nuts are needed. Printed on Ender 3 and CR10. Printed at .2mm in inland black and clear PETG (LEDs can get hot, you will want something that wont melt) at 30mm/s, 7mm retraction, 1.2mm shell thickness on all sides and combing mode: All turned on. I printed the frame so that the face was down on a glass bed using supports. the supports can leave the recess a little messed up, but it makes the surface really smooth. I then glue the two sections of frame together with epoxy and coated the top surface of the frame with bed liner (I like the surface texture). I printed the top panel face down with no support using black PETG and then changed over to clear after 3-4 layers of black. I find it usually takes at least 3 layers of the black before it is opaque enough to block the LED light. The words/numbers are either raised or lowered from the surface .05", so you should have around 6-7 layers before you HAVE to change to transparent.

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