Tronxy X5S Electronics Box for SKR 1.3 and Raspberry Pi.
Description
Having a bit of an upgrade fest on my Tronxy X5S, one of the things that I wanted to tidy up was the quantity of electric string adorning the machine. I've upgraded the original controller to an SKR 1.3 and also wanted to use Octoprint. The separate screen controller, Mainboard and the Raspberry Pi was going to need housing somewhere, as well as cooling with the switch to TMC 2208 drivers. The design concept was it needed to fit on the front of the machine to give clear access to the controller but not protrude significantly as I am planning to enclose the printer at some point in the future. The only projection from this design is the control know which I plan to let project through a drilled hole in the door of the enclosure to enable operation from outside. The case utilises a 2050 axial flow fan to draw cooling air into the case through the five inlet ports at the lower edge of the case. These direct the air across the Stepper driver heat sinks ensuring they get maximum airflow. The Raspberry Pi sits in front of the fan and the circulating air should ensure it remains cooled too. I recommend fitting heat sinks to the Pi processors and regulator chips to prevent auto-throttling. I intend to mount a PiCam on the bed carriage where there's a couple of screw holes conveniently unused for the cable chain on the rear of the printer. To this end, there is a small slot in the base for the PiCam ribbon cable to exit. The V3.1 box has been on the printer for around 150 hours of printing with no evidence of overheating of the TMC drivers or the Raspberry Pi. I had to ramp up the ref voltage for the 4988 extruder driver for 0.72 to 0.85 to alleviate some skipping issues and its now running quite happily. Update. 11 Apr 2020. Folks, Having a bit of a practical issue keeping the door closed on this. The magnet and washer are just not up to the job in my case anyway. I've redesigned the box (V3.2) and the lid (V3.1) to accommodate a screw fastening using an M3 x 16mm cap head screw and M3 nut. I've also shifted the aperture for the control knob 1mm down and 0.5mm to the right to align better with the control board dimensions. I've left the earlier versions on here just in case anyone prefers the magnetic closure option. Update. 13May2020: This has been running without a hitch for a couple of months now so I'm taking off the "Work in Progress" status. Please feel free to feedback any comments and I'll update if necessary.
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