Tin lamp nach Art des Frimmels
Description
(20.0410 I updated the lamp skirt holder part "underkantsring.stl" to make it easier to install and remove the lamp when needed. Now it consists of two parts that snap into ech other - don't forget to support the "snap" action with your fingers in order not to break the parts. The freecad file and the corresponding .3mf was updated as well.) I named this third lamp "Tin lamp nach Art des Frimmels", referring to a small part of Swedish design history (for the Cylinder and Tiffany lamps, please see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4267901 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4267782 ). The lamp includes two 3 color print themes "europeendless" and "tenn50", however, don't give up yet even if you haven't got a multi-material (MMU) printer or have no MMU at all. For example, you could print the lamp skirt using only a single or two transparent colors. To print multi-color without an MMU, after slicing you could manually add a few pauses in the gcode (look up on the internet how to do that, or ask a friend, if you're unsure) or even just stay alert and pause manually during the print. Remember, if you print with layer 1=0.2mm, and layer 2 with 0.3mm it will only be 6 color shifts in total (or 4, if you only use back- and foreground colors). Quite possible to manage by hand. I found the excellent shape computations for the cylinder not on wikipedia, but, (with my fathers help) in an Austrian pocket calendar from 1970. In those days, apparently people carried useful things in their pockets! There are two versions of the lamp holder parts with a tight (14.1mm) and wide (14.4mm) inside thread. The tight thread will be sufficient e.g. for PLA with extrusion=1.0, the wider will be used e.g. for WoodFILL with extrusion=1.2. Test print a small part of the thread to make sure you have chosen the right one. The lamp is set up for an E14 lamp socket found for example at the "Kjell & Co" shops in Sweden. If you plan to use a different kind of socket, be aware that you must redesign the "lampfäste" part (see the freecad source file). You must ensure not to overheat the printed parts so take good care of which lamps to use. Personally, I use LED lamps of no more than 3W in my constructions. Obviously, you will also need to buy an electric cable including a connector (I bought mine at "Clas Ohlson" in Sweden. The design is thought to be of a "print and click together" kind. However, be aware that some locks might become tighter or looser than expected when you change filament settings (eg PLA versus WoodFILL, or extrusion factor 1.2 versus 1.0), and I advice you to first test print the lock parts (they are collected in "KLIPPtester_lampfotsdelar.3mf") if you're unsure they will fit. If you are experienced with freecad, the settings can easily be changed by altering the numbers in column B of the spreadsheet in the attached freecad document. Whenever you change the thread parameters for the lamp holder, be aware that freecad will not always be able to recompute the thread so carefullu examine a sliced output if you set custom values. Last but not least, please don't forget Gretas hard work even these days where the virus might be your main focus.
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