Pitanarasha - Ender 3 Pitan for Direct Extrusion

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So I saw the Pitan and absolutely loved the idea of a printable geared extruder. I gotta admit I was skeptical, but this really works so well! However, it wasn't exactly easy to make work with the Ender 3 fitted with a Hero Me when I wanted it to be direct extrusion, so I set out to make some changes. My goal for this remix was to make it using as many of the parts found on a stock Ender 3 as I could. And I got pretty close __________________________________________ <h3>Features: </h3> - Works with the Ender 3 - Compatible with the Hero Me duct - Positioned above the hotend for a straight path from extruder to hotend - Best used with a pancake motor for low weight - Many of the needed parts can be salvaged from an Ender 3 that has seen upgrades and therefore left spare parts behind - Features remixed direct extrusion adapter that allows for easily taking the extruder off without disassembly Note: This is best printed in ABS or nylon. PLA can work if you only ever print PLA, but if you plan on occasionally printing PETG, ABS or other higher temp filaments or if you use an enclosure in summer, you will need a higher temp resistant filament or it will deform and collapse. <h1>List of parts needed:</h1> <h3>Stock parts needed: </h3> - Extruder spring. Any will do, even old bed springs, the weak ones on the E3 are fine for this - The hobbed nut from the extruder(the brass thing with teeth) - The V slot bearing from the extruder(the gray metal wheel that presses filament into the hobbed nut) <h3>Non-stock parts needed: </h3> - 2x M5 bolts of reasonable length(one needs the head sawn off or you can get a thread with no head) - 1x M5 locking nut to put at the end of the headless thread(this goes in the large gear with glue) - 2x M5 regular nuts(the ones without the nylon locking thing in them) - 4x M5 washers - A spare V slot wheel OR the two bearings you get from it - Some epoxy glue or similar high strength, thick glue - 3x M3x25 bolt - 3x M3x10 bolts - A snippet of Bowden tube to triangle cut for the entry into the gearbox - OPTIONAL: A ziptie to tie the motor wire to the frame to keep it in place All of the non-stock parts can be gotten from a hardware store except the bearings. Those can either be bought or if you have a discarded V slot wheel you can remove the black plastic and get the two bearings you need from a single wheel. You are gonna need a motor. For Bowden you can use the stock motor. For direct extrusion you still can but I strongly suggest getting a pancake motor to severely decrease the weight. <h3>Optional steps that help a lot: </h3> - Grind a flat on the M5 thread you use as an axle to help the grub screws get a grip, just like the regular extruder motor - Apply threadlocker to the threads of the grub screw and tighten them quickly to keep the grub screws in place. - Epoxy glue inside the hobbed nut to fill it out and help it hold even better to the axle. <h2>List of notable changes:</h2> - No more tube fitting in the Pitan. The guide slides onto the PTFE tube and that is more than plenty when running direct extrusion. In fact, my first version had a fitting and it just got in the way - The bearings are changed from the original 695zz to 625z. These are found in the Ender 3 V-slot wheels, one wheel yields 2 bearings if you don't damage them during removal. So if you have a spent wheel with worn out grooves, that has the bearings you need - The bearing in the tension arm has been replaced with the V groove bearing that is used in the stock extruder frame of the Ender 3. It is now held in with an M4 bolt - The spring tension can now be adjusted if desired. With an M5 bolt, a non-locking M5 nut free on the bolt and a non-locking M5 nut glued on the end, you can turn the bolt to move the glued nut closer to the tension arm, increasing spring tension if needed - I added a hook on one of the frame pieces to hook the extruder motor cable in to anchor it down so it doesn't get stuck in the gears - I added a base that can be screwed on a modified version of Benawhite's "Direct Drive converter" which allows you to make the Ender 3 a direct extrusion system(direct drive is a misnomer. Direct drive actually just means there is no gearbox and the filament is moved directly by the motor shaft). This allows for the Pitan to be screwed on or screwed off so you don't have to take the entire hotend off, you just unscrew two M3 bolts to take the extruder off - The frame is held into the motor with 2 bolts inside the Pitan instead of 4 going all the way through. This allows you to open up the Pitan without taking it off the motor The holes to close the Pitan now have modelled M3 threads - This is re-designed for use with the hobbed nut that the stock Ender 3 extruder has, but I'm sure you can make it work with a hobbed nut like the original Pitan uses - The spring slot has been re-shaped to work with one of the bed springs the Ender 3 uses from the factory. I went with this partially because I had them lying around, partially because most people will have them lying around after upgrading to better bed springs - Gear 2 is now made to fit an M5 threaded rod to serve as the center axle with an M5 nut at the bottom slotting into Gear 2

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