Big Tree Tech SKR 1.4 Case + Octopi Case Combo

Description

I didn't like how CR-10S electronics and spool holder is not integrated into the printer. It probably helps with the vibration since their stock fans and electronics make so much noise and vibration. After upgrading to SKR v1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers, E3D V6 nozzle, Bondtech BMG extruder, Noctua fans, Silent 6 fan for PSU, and concrete blocks from Lowes, it's running very silent now and reliable but the stock case and spool holder still sucked and couldn't house all the new electronics. I'm also using an Octopi, a buck converter to power it, and a relay to possibly power on and off the printer itself in the future (my next task). I designed the SKR cover closed up with no vents and only vents on certain sides of the case to ensure the air flows in those directions. Octopi is barely doing any work on the Pi so I decided not to put any fans on it but put air vents on all sides. The logos are optional but they are a nice touch. You can also leave them out for extra air vents. You can use the logo bases to align the actual logo and super glue all of them together. Note the template files can be printed first to see if your stuff aligns before committing to a longer print. The case also has 4 extra screw holes with threaded inserts below the Octopi case for further mods. If I decided to go AC bed route, I could modify the Pi case and expand it all the way. If I need more electronics, I can make a smaller case and mount them using those 4 screw slots. I could also print some angle brackets and tie them to the rail for extra stability. I might also be making further mods to the case itself to make it look cooler than a square box. For now, I don't want to deal with any more supports than needed. 6/28/2020 EDIT: I posted some pictures. I notice the case is a very tight fit and there's no extra space for longer wires. I intended to cut up any wire slack and crimp new headers on them so this was a problem I expected. I didn't want the case to be any bigger than it needed to be. I wouldn't recommend it for you if you can't work with wiring a tight fit case. In retrospect, I'd also double the thickness of zip tie tracks. They are a bit flimsy now but still works. I completely forgot that the LCD wire headers are so much bigger then other headers. I had to cut two air vent slots for them. It didn't interfere with the look since the slots are on the bottom. I also had to file down the radial bed heater connector slot. It appears I need to increase the holes a couple of millimeters bigger just to be safe and to account for 3D printer's variances. If your 3D printer is dimensionally accurate, that shouldn't be a problem. --------------------------------------------------- Parts I used: Relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVXT1ZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Buck Converter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0817P8BGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua Fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Silent 6 Fan for PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008S1HNPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Threaded Inserts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L96KVP3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Half Inch Wire Sleves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GMNW7T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 M3 Screws: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734NVR48/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 T Nuts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z94V83/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ------------------------------------------------ Other parts I printed for my CR-10S: Direct drive mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080548 Spool holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3347259 BTT TFT3.5 E3 V3 mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4506051

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