Arduino Parking Distance Sensor V2.0
Description
This is the 3D printable, remixed version of my old laser cut parking sensor. This one is externally wall mountable and utilizes the following components: 1. Arduino Nano - https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Arduino-ATmega328P-Without-Compatible/dp/B0713XK923 2. US-100 Ultrasonic Sensor - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Ultrasonic-Module-Distance-Arduino/dp/B07W1GDPRN 3. Neopixel Strip (cut to 12 dots, this is adjustable) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDTEJBG 4. Strip LED extrusion - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KBYQ3JR 5. MicroUSB breakout board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0183KF7TM 6. 100uf capacitor (neopixels call for this, might be optional) 7. Small 6mm square microswitch 8. 4 M3x16mm socket head cap screws for the enclosure(or just superglue it together when you verify it all works.) 9. Some superglue or something to make sure the button doesn't pop out (optional) 10. Long MicroUSB cable. 11. Any old 5v USB phone charger >1A 12. A light bulb socket adapter for the garage door opener: https://www.amazon.com/Onite-Outlet-Adapter-Standard-Splitter/dp/B01EHAE56S Parts 6 and 7 I got from a little Arduino breadboard kit from Amazon that has a bunch of other useful stuff in it. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERP6WL4 You'll have a lot of useful other stuff to play with after this project, or just make a bunch of them for friends and family. The .ino arduino code is in the .zip. You can read and edit this for pin assignments on the nano, and change colors or whatever you want. It will at least get you operational. Flash this to the nano using the Arduino IDE. If you aren't familiar with Arduino, this is an easy project to get started with! There are lots of tutorials out there. Keep in mind that for the knock off Nanos, I've found most require the Atmega 328P OLD BOOTLOADER for it to properly flash. Most current Fusion 360 project is here if you want to fiddle with it: https://a360.co/37qhFZX A 100uf capacitor is suggested for the neopixels, I just wired it to the microusb breakout board (polarity is important, white strip side to negative). The wiring is dead simple, check the pictures. Just make sure you wire it up in such a way that it has room to fit in the enclosure. Use very small gauge wire <22ga. You'll have to desolder the right angle pins from the US-100 and remove them to fit it into the enclosure. To power the unit, you can put a light bulb socket outlet adapter in your garage door opener and then run a phone charger and micro usb cable to the unit, that way when your garage door opens and the light comes on, the parking sensor activates. Your opener may or may not have room in the light cover for this, be creative. When assembling, I suggest leaving the LED extrusion longer than 24 inches so you can see it over the hood of your car, but it can be any length. Cut it with a hacksaw and sand/file the edges smooth. The clear cover can be cut too, and will be shorter than the aluminum extrusion for it to fit on the printed parts. The clear cover has to be just inside the printed parts for looks. It doesn't need to slide in very far. There are screw holes on the back of the base to drill and bolt through the extrusion, but they are not necessary. Once it is screwed on the wall it isn't going to come apart, and my extrusions went in tight and were held by just friction. I use regular drywall screws to attach it. Attach it such that the ultrasonic sensor is roughly in line with the center of the car's bumper at the part where the bumper sticks out the furthest. It doesn't have to be perfect. It might be best to stick it up there temporarily to make sure it works before screwing it to the wall. To program it, park the car where you want it to stop every time. Hold the button down and wait for the led bar to fill up. When it starts flashing, step away from the sensor and don't get anything in the way. It will take a measurement and flash purple rapidly, then read red (or flicker blue to red). If you back the car up, you should see it turn blue almost instantly, and gradually start filling up with yellow, that's how you'll know it is programmed correctly. The 3 large parts should print outside down to the buildplate. The concave part should print upwards. Only the Endcap should need supports to the build plate to support the screw attachment point area. The 4th part, the MicroUSB cap, snaps the micro usb board inside the Endcap before the extrusion goes in to hold it all together. Be sure to solder everything first of course, there should be room in the top of the extrusion for extra wire. Enjoy! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
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