Y slider beltless
Description
Part_A consisting of the motor bracket, the coupling to the slide and the front bearing block. You also need a 5/8 coupling, 1 piece of trapezoidal thread rod Tr8-8; 458.5mm long, an ani-backslash nut to match the threaded rod, an 8mm ball bearing for the front bearing block. 2 screws for fastening the motor, you can use these in front of the original bracket. For the coupling you need 4 screws M3x15 (ani-backslash nut) and 4 screws M3x8 (slide fastening). I used ISO 7380-1 screws, flat head screws with a hexagon socket. The slide and guides are left. The original screws (motor mount / front belt tensioner) are used for the bearing mounting. Part_C Consisting of a motor mount with slide guide holder, according to the original dimensions (172mm axis dimension). A completely new slide and a front bearing block with slide guide holder. Coupling 5/8, trapezoidal thread rod, ani-backslash nut and ball bearing as described in Part_A. Original screws can be used to attach the rear or front bracket. For the ani-backslash nut, 4 screws M3x15 are used, just like on the securing of the spider wings. Part_B all superstructures in between. Holder with guide holder / original slide; New slider with old guide, etc. All parts are of course printable and have already been printed by me. The experimental setup gave me some headaches and unfortunately it was only made with a Tr8-4 threaded rod, an -8 with an ani-backslash nut is ordered, the parts are then safely installed, I also found heat insulation and got it right away built in. I think a Tr8-8 threaded rod is sufficient, with 128 steps you still have 1 / 600mm division. A use of the construction on other 3D printers should also be feasible! The trapezoidal threaded rod is specified for an external frame dimension of 500mm and can be adapted to the other external frame dimensions. FL_RR = Front_Left and Right_Rear FR_LR = Front_Right and Left_Rear An honest word: I designed, printed and used this part. It may appeal to a few people, but I have to point out its drawbacks. A 3d printer is quieter with a belt drive, caused by the rotation of the spindle some noise that was spared me with the belt drive. Doesn't work with every stepper driver, I tried it with ST820 without success; it works with a TMC 2225 UART. Finding and adjusting a suitable clutch is not that easy either, it loosens often by centrifugal forces. The motor axis and spindle axis must be precisely aligned. These are my experiences. It is 100mm / s printing speed possible, but I can also do this with a belt drive. I have no special motors (S42B) related. There is still a lot to be agreed technically. Exchange of experiences would be desirable. Addendum: I put the spindle drive back into operation with a CNC coupling, Vref adjusted the stepper driver according to the manufacturer's instructions, with TMC2225, 1.2 ampere motor it was 1.2 volts; felt a bit high to me. Runs perfectly after the idle speed etc. has been adjusted. You only have to note that the marlin 6000 mm / s is preset, which would be 45000 rpm on the motor and this at 256 x 200 steps per revolution, corresponds to 2304000000 steps / s.
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