Equatorial mount for DSLR (for 15mm pipe and 32mm bearings)
Description
This is a remix for the excellent Equitorial Camera Mount design by SimonRob. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4365068 As I couldn't get a 10mm pipe that was straight and without being partly squashed I decided to use a piece of 15mm pipe I already had that just happened to also be the perfect length to cut down without much waste (120mm). To use the 15mm pipe I ordered 2 x '6002 2RS 15mm x 32mm x 9mm' bearings from ebay. They looked huge when they turned up but in reality are only 2mm wider than the original ones in the design so don't affect it's use (just the central core fitting). I've altered the Body, Support, and Large Gear to take a 15mm pipe, and increased the pipe tolerances in the gear and support for a '.2mm' gap instead of '.15' and '.125' so it will work better for my Creality CR10. I also used small screws instead of the nuts and bolts to hold the pipe and other biits together. I felt that it was just easier for me (personal preference). You can use Simons original Manfrotto or one of my remixes. They all fit. Once again, thank you Simon for the great original design. Edit: I've also made a new case for the controller as I used a smaller Pro mini (without a USB connector - as I had one to hand) instead of the one used. I have printed the lid in white PLA with slight indents for added light to come through at the right places. (it allows me to see the LEDs change so that I know it is working and not hung.) The lid is a (tight) push fit that stays in place well and has a slot at the end so you can easily pop it off if needed. The lid ends have a v-shaped slot in them to hold it in place (You will need to use the back of a craft knife to carefully shave/scrape a tiny bit off one side and the point of the knife on one end to make it fit perfectly as each printer has different tolerances.) and I changed the circuit a bit as well, * I removed the power switch as I have a switch on the 18650 battery I use. * I use the power and ground wires from an old USB cable soldered to an old jumper connector so that I can also use the pro-mini serial connector to re-program the controller if I ever need to. * I use 2 small momentary contact switches for the quick rotate option so that I could colour code the buttons to match the red/green LEDs for left/right (personal preference). * I changed the 2 LEDs for a single lower power Red/Green LED on pins D2 & D3. I changed the code slightly so the 'quick move' Red LED only came on when it was in use (saves power). I also didn't need it to show that the device was on as I could see the other LEDs through the lid. The PCBs are held down with a bit of hot glue so they can be easily replaced if they died. I plan to hot glue the controller box to the side of the mechanism once I am sure that I have finished all the changes I want. Edit: If you do not have a weight to balance the camera/lens I have provided one here... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4687665
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