Sapphire Dragon Orbiter

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This is now in open beta! DO NOT PRINT THE COOLER IN PLA. Goals: --Try to balance weight above and below the movement plane --Avoid a printed carriage --Keep it light-ish --Provide a direct filament feedpath that is almost fully constrained --Kill some time in CAD --Reuse the stock metal carriage --I will never make this for the e3d hotend. Groovemount needs to die. Extruder parts: ---Follow the guide for assembly of "The Orbiter" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223085 ---I used the 7.2:1 ratio extruder. The aluminum spider available via aliexpress will not work out of the box for the 7.2 version, only the 7.5:1. If you are willing to sit there with sandpaper on glass and a drill for about three hours, it will work. The 7.5:1 is easier to make work, but the 7.2:1 is completely silent in operation. Printed parts: 2x of tensioner_slider 2x Stepper spacer. Minimum 100% scale (12mm) for 15mm screws. I use 15mm (125% Z scale with 20mm M3 screws to space the steppers down). Sapphire Plus comes with leadscrews that are too long from factory. 1x of everything else Parts: 4x M2.5 12mm screws (16mm may bee to long, the threading is not so deep. Dragon comes with 8-10mm screws) 4x M3x5mm 90* countersunk screws 4x M3x15-20mm screws to space the steppers down 2x M4x8 or M4x15mm screws 2x M4 nuts (not nyloc) 2x M4x12mm Socket head screws 2x 4-6mm hardened ball bearings to put in the spiral cut Z couplers. Not required, just good practice. Tools: 90* countersink bit for metal M4 tap and associated undersized drill bit Instructions: ---Print the spacer steppers and make sure your top and bottom layers are good. Install to correct factory flaw. ---Print all your bits. Sapphire Plus requires the spacer, otherwise the motor hits the front of the frame. I do not own a Sapphire Plus, so I am unsure of fit that way. ---Countersink the X carriage so the M3 securing screws sit flush. ---Assemble the hotend to the ducting piece. ---Put the hotend, tensioner block, tensioner insert on the X carriage and place some PTFE tube down through to the hotend. This should be about 60mm long, but will vary depending on how you ground the heatbrake for the extruder. ---Place the extruder over the PTFE tube, and note if any support by the PTFE exit on the tensioner block needs to be trimmed (it is designed so you can trim it to length) ---Mark where you need to drill the holes to mount the extruder to the X carriage. ---Drill the holes at your marks, and tap for M4 screws. It is better to remove the x carriage from the printer for easier cleanup. ---Assemble the BL-Touch on the probe_mount part. The offset should be nearly exactly 43mm. CAD design is for 43.09mm in the Y axis, but plastic likes to deform a little. ---Set your firmware for the 43mm offset. ---Measure the probe trigger height just as you would for any other ABL and set it in the firmware. ---Print away. Consider upgrading the part cooling fans. They are AWFUL. spool3d.ca and TH3D have some, but they are pricey. All my test printing was done with stock fans; because I'm lazy and cheap. Update 1: -Optimized ducting and ran about 100 different test cases. I think the flow analysis speaks for itself. Update2: - I was not very happy with the BL touch mount. It fits a tad loose (.6mm gap) which multiplied over the length of the BL touch created a moving probe offset. Added a bevel to locate. The carriage bevel is 43* and the adapter is 45* which will create a positive location lock on fastening.

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