![Snap-on Snow Guards for Tapered Standing Seam Roofs](https://3dcrawler.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/thingiverse/4602979-Snap-on-Snow-Guards-for-Tapered-Standing-Seam-Roofs-1097088426.jpg)
Snap-on Snow Guards for Tapered Standing Seam Roofs
Description
Snow guards are small barricades that break up the flow of snow off of metal roofs to prevent avalanches. Some are designed to attach to the standing seams, but they won't work on many popular panel profiles that have tapered standing seams (as shown in the second photo). This version is designed specifically for tapered standing seams, and has a lip that clips onto rolled edge side of the standing seam. As the snow loads on top of the guard, it presses it against the tapered seam, helping to lock it into place. A couple of things to note before printing and installing dozens of these: ~~The lip on the guard that clips it into place only runs along the upper half of the guard, making it easy to lift up on the other end (the paddle end) to pry the guard off for removal. As such, these should be installed with the paddle facing downhill, as shown in the photo. Having the paddle face uphill will allow the snow load to pry the guard off of the seam. To install, just snap onto the roof seams, maybe with the aid of a small rubber mallet. ~~Note that the base of each seam has a smooth side and a rolled edge side. On any given roof, the rolled edge may be on the right or on the left, or some combinaiton of left and right. You may need to mirror the part in your slicer to print ones that install the right way for each of your roof sections (keeping in mind that the paddle should always be pointing downhill). ~~This particular guard was designed for Custom-Bilt Metal SL-100 roof panels. The seam is about 3/4" tall and 0.675" wide at the widest point. If your roof's seams are a different size, you should be able to scale the part in X and Y in your slicer to get a good, firm, snap fit. I've included a SnowGuardTestProfile.STL file that will allow you to print a small section with different scaling to test the fit of the clip. ~~I live in Bellingham where it doesn't get very hot, so I printed mine in PLA. (I'll probably have to heat treat the PLA). For hotter climates, you may want to use ABS or other more heat resistant filaments. ~~I've included a second version that has a hole for a 1/4-20 set screw. I'm not sure if this will be needed or not. If you use a set screw, make sure you use an oval-tip screw to prevent damage to the paint on the metal seam. ~~**Most importantly** I haven't tested these yet through the year (winter for functionality, summer for durability), much less through several seasons. I'll keep you posted on how well they work and update with the inevitable modifications. If you are inclined to test these for yourself, make sure you aren't using them where their failure might cause injury or damage. PRINTING Use at least 4 perimeter lines and a 35% full triangular infill. This part needs to be very stiff.
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