EvoB3 CoreXY 3D Printer
Description
This is my custom CoreXY design that is loosely based onto HyperCube Evolution. There's a lot to say about this printer, but i'll try to be as concise as possible: The main design goals of this printer are: * very high print quality * easily enclosable * precise and smooth kinematics * fast (if you want to) * correct and sturdy belt pathing and use of toothed/smooth idlers * easy belt tensioning (heritage from Hypercube) * 16T pulleys for maximum torque and precision * lightweight gantry * very rigid * stable, reliable bed (as to not require constant releveling) * 3 point bed leveling * single z-leadscrew (aka no more z-motors sync issues) * as cheap as possible while maintaining the highest possible quality standard * quiet all in all, i think i nailed every single point of this list, maybe except the quiet one just because of the fans. if you want a printer like this, then you're looking at the right design. If you want to maximize speed, and/or feel the need for ABL, then this might not be for you. Should you decide to build this, message me (either here or on reddit https://www.reddit.com/user/Bracc8/) as i can provide help with many things that are not obvious about the build. Also, as of now (30th December 2020), i still have to prepare lots of additional stuff for release, like some documentation and files to print little helpers for drilling holes and the likes. Be aware that this printer requires you to cut and drill some aluminium pieces. You can do without a CNC but you still got to have some drills and electric saws and be able to use them effectively. Also, in the build are used some 10x10mm(x1mm thickness) and 15x15mm(x1mm thickness) aluminium square tubes. They are very very cheap (3 to 4€ per meter) and readily available at the local hardware store here in Europe, but i absolutely don't know if they can be found in the US locally or online at all) Rough materials list: * 4x 375mm 2020 V/T-Slot extrusions * 4x 388mm 2020 V/T-Slot extrusions * 4x 402mm 2020 V/T-Slot extrusions * 2x 388mm 2020 V-Slot extrusions * 1x 30x50mm(x3mm thickness) L shaped aluminium profile to be cut to 54.50mm width * about 50cm of 40mm(x3mm thickness) aluminium plate to be cut to two 40x50mm and two 60x21mm * 8x openbuilds corner cubes * 28x 2020 corner brackets * LOTS of M3 screws of all lengths * LOTS of M3 nuts * LOTS of M3 washers * 2x M2x20mm screws * 2x M2 nuts * 8x M5x50 partially threaded screws * 16x M5 washers * 8x M5 self locking nuts * 24x M5 flat slim head screws (they are the ones specific for the openbuilds corner cubes) * LOTS of M3 T-nuts * LOTS of M4 T-Nuts * LOTS of M4 screws and washers (short ones, for mounting the corners) * 3x small ball bearings ~3mm (for Z micro tilt) * 3x 300mm (295mm in reality) MGN9 rails with MGN9H carriages * 2x 3x37mm steel shafts * 4x 3x31mm steel shafts (you can get these shafts for free scavenging them in old cd/dvd drives and cutting them to length * 2x 2GT 16T 5mm bore pulleys * 6x 16T 3mm bore toothed idlers (with ball bearings) * 2x 16T 3mm bore non-toothed idlers (with ball bearings) * 2x 40mm fan * 2x 4010 blower fans * 1x 80mm fan * 3x endstop mechanical switches with the little roller on the tip * 1x E3D v6 hotend or compatible alternative * 2 meters of 2GT 6mm belt * 2x 374mm 10x10mm square aluminium tubes * 1x 309mm 10x10mm square aluminium tube * 2x 385mm 15x15mm square aluminium tubes * 2x 327mm 15x15mm square aluminium tubes * 2x 188mm 15x15mm square aluminium tubes * 8x polycarbonate v-wheels (it is important that you get PC wheels to avoid the flat spot issues of POM wheels) * 8x openbuilds 6mm eccentric nuts * 8x openbuilds 6mm spacers * 1x 8x350mm leadscrew with brass nut * 1x 5mm to 8mm RIGID clamp style coupler (same as ender 3 basically) * 3x bed springs * 1x 220x220x3mm MK3 12/24v aluminium heated bed * 1x 220x220mm magnetic PEI spring steel surface * 4x nema17 stepper motors (i use 0.9° steppers for XY motors, rest is 1.8°) * 1x extruder of your choice (i went with a cheap BMG extruder from aliexpress) * 1 meter of ID2 OD4 bowden tube * 1x SKR 1.3/1.4/1.4 Turbo mainboard with drivers of your choice (AT2100 seem to be very cheap but pretty good. i am running LV8729s @ 1/64) * 1x LCD 12864 Full graphic smart display controller or compatible * 1x MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 * 1x optional XL4015 DC-DC stepdown converter if you want to use some 12v fans * 1x optional 8A DC-DC stepdown converter to power the PI4 * 1x optional Raspberry PI4 if you want klipper and octoprint * 1x optional external mosfet module, if you like me don't trust the SKR too much * 2x 212x411x5mm expanded PVC sheets. (or any material you like, i find expanded PVC easy to find and easy to cut by hand with an exacto knife or something) * 1x IEC socket with fuse and switch You'll also need these tools: * drill * M2, M3, M5 bits * M3, M5 tapping bits * a mini-dremel or similar * a bandsaw or circular saw * some small files * some sandpaper * an M8 threaded rod you'll use to kind of file down the burrs inside the 10x10 square tubes now, for a little FAQ section: * Where are the STLs? there are no stls (except for 1 to make thingiverse happy), instead the full CAD source files are provided so you can very easily modify stuff. It is made with Fusion 360. * Why not just build an HyperCube/HEVO ? those printers have outdated designs, and have many flaws. They do work, but not to the kind of quality and precision (generally) of this machine. * Why not just build a Voron? Vorons are super nice and i like them a lot, however they are also super expensive, and i'm not sure their Z-Axis solution is as precise/consistent as i'd like. * Why linear rails on X-Y and V-Wheels on Z? simply put, because it's the smoothest solution possible. I've tried linear rails up to and including MGN15 and they are not even remotely smooth as V-Wheels for Z. They might be if you buy genuine HiWin. Anyway, this setup is relatively cheap and works extremely well. Do note tho, that polycarbonate wheels are mandatory to get the best quality, and that the Z-Motor mount has a micro-tilt adjustment to perfectly align the leadscrew to the bed assembly * Why no ABL/Mesh BL ? because the aim here is to not really need those. From my experience, bed leveling is very stable with this printer. Mesh BL could be useful if your bed is warped, but that's an issue i like to solve mechanically rather than via software. My bed is a twotrees 220x220x3mm aluminium bed that was concave at the center. I straightened it with 3 small wood pieces, a straight edge and some patience
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