IKEA Lack Enclosure for 50x50 / 25x50 side panels
Description
#IKEA Lack Enclosure# ##for 50x50cm / 25x50cm side panels## ###Why another design### I liked IKEA Lack Enclosure for 3D printer, so I bought the IKEA tables and acrylic glass of standard dimensions 50x50cm and 25x50cm (4mm thickness), but I didn't find any model using exactly the same dimensions. Therefor I've decided to create my own design. ###What's needed### - **2x** IKEA Lack table - **2x** 50x50cm 4mm panels (acrylic glass) - **4x** 25x50cm 4mm panels (acrylic glass) - **32x** M4 nut - **32x** M4x16 bolt (for 4mm panels, M4x14 should also fit) - *for 2mm panels M4x12 should be fine* - **16x** 4x70 wood screw - **16x** 4x40 wood screw (even shorter may be enough) Optional: - *M4 washers (optional, up to 48, I've used 16 for hinges)* - *4-8 magnes* - *4-8 magnet holders* - *door handles* - *filament guide* *I've used four 20x10x3mm neodymium magnets and created design for holders and small handles (screws of handles are hitting magnets to keep the doors closed).* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707223 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843989 You can add some drawers bellow the table: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4845111 If you will build a second floor, you may need a bowden tube to get a filament from the top to the bottom box. I've created bowden clips for that purpose (usable for bowden printers getting filament from a side): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4848118 ###Models description### There are two type of hinges - left and right, 4 of each. Left hinges are mounted on the left side of a door (for left door), right hinges on the right side of a door (for right door). All pieces are named according to their location and position (numbered from the bottom). Each piece orientation is according to the assembly position, but some pieces are better to be printed upside down. Bellow you can fine recommended orientation for each piece. **LeftFrontBottom3**, **LeftBackBottom2**, **LeftFrontTop1** and **RightFrontTop1** should be the same pieces with a different orientation, but for better clarity I've exported each piece separately. I like more rear seam for this print, some pieces will need proper rotation in your slicer if you want to use the same. ###Printing### - **4x HingeLeft** Print as is - **4x HingeRight** Print as is - **LeftFrontBottom1** Print as is, mount HingeLeft - **LeftFrontBottom2** Print as is, mount HingeRight - **LeftFrontBottom3** Print **upside down**, *bigger hole on the front (bottom) right corner for rear seam* - **LeftFrontTop1** Print as is - **LeftFrontTop2** Print **upside down**, mount HingeLeft, *bigger hole on the front (bottom) right corner for rear seam* - **LeftFrontTop3** Print **upside down**, mount HingeRight, *hinge holder on the front (bottom) right corner for rear seam* - **RightFrontBottom1** Print as is, mount HingeRight - **RightFrontBottom2** Print as is - **RightFrontTop1** Print as is - **RightFrontTop2** Print **upside down**, mount HingeRight, *hinge holder on the front (bottom) left corner for rear seam* - **LeftBackBottom1** Print as is, mount HingeLeft, *hinge holder on the front (bottom) left corner for rear seam* - **LeftBackBottom2** Print **upside down**, *bigger hole on the front (bottom) left corner for rear seam* - **LeftBackTop1** Print **upsdie down**, *side holes on the front (bottom) side for rear seam* - **LeftBackTop2** Print **upside down**, mount HingeLeft, *hinge holder on the front (bottom) right corner for rear seam* - **RightBackBottom** Print **upside down**, *nut holes on the front (bottom) and left side for rear seam* - **RightBackTop** Print as is, *nut holes on the front (bottom) and right side for rear seam* - **12x NutLock** Print as is (laying on the bed) - **4x NutLockShort** Print as is (laying on the bed), *usable for LeftBackBottom and RightFrontTop* ###Assembly instruction### 1. Assemble one Lack table (bottom one) 2. Print all parts 3. Mount together all pieces according to their name, it's better to start with bottom parts 4. Insert nuts into prepared holes and fix them using **NutLock** (or other preferred method) For *LeftBackBottom* and *RightFrontTop* use **NutLockShort** 5. Remember to insert hinges where needed 6. Insert 4x70 wood screws into long holes going through all pieces 7. Screw it to the leg **Make sure sure you mount together parts belonging to the same leg** *(i.e. LeftFrontBottom parts on the same leg as LeftFrontTop parts)* 8. Insert two sided screws (included within Lack table) into top parts 9. Mount legs to the desk **Make sure orientation and location of the legs is correct** *If the orientation is not correct and you are not able to rotate the leg, you can try to unscrew, rotate, and screw the leg again* 10. Fix legs to the desk with two 4x40 wood screws 11. Put second table on top of the first one 12. Secure all legs with 4x40 wood screws 13. Unscrew M4x16 bolts *Nuts in the top parts will fall lower when not secured with bolts, but they will get back to the correct position when you rotate the table upside down** 14. Drill holes into side panels (acrylic glass) *This part may be a more tricky* *I've first marked holes while holding the panels in the correct position. Then I've drilled 2mm holes and verified the correctness while holding panels at supposed position. If some hole was a little off, then I've used 2mm drill bit again to enlarge the hole so the middle of the hole will be at the correct position. Then I've used 4mm drill bit to create the final holes.* 15. Attach 50x50 panels to the correct position. First, fix the bottom parts, then rotate the table (to move the nuts inside) and fix remaining parts *If your bolts have small heads (or you have drilled too big holes) you may need to use M4 washers* 16. Insert M4 nuts into back sides of hinges 17. Attach 25x50 panels to the hinges *If your bolts have small heads (or you have drilled too big holes) you may need to use M4 washers* *If the door won't close completely because of printing or assembly imperfection, inserting M4 washers between a panel and the hinge can help* **It's done!** ### Warning ### **I didn't print exactly same model!** I had few issues, like wrong (not symmetric) orientation of some holes, smaller holes for screws (I drilled them with 4mm drill bit after print) and one part printed as two parts even when it could be just one print. I've decided to post process my printed parts instead of printing them again, but I've fixed all found issues in the design. **There are small tolerances in this design.** Assembling doors 1 mm off can cause them to not be able to open more than ~80°, or to not close completely if doors will hit each other. In such a case it should be possible to enlarge holes a little if needed. In my case, only one left side door is hitting a leg when opening above 80°, but it still can fully open with a little friction. As I'm not opening left side that often I kept it that way. Because of "elephant foot" some of my door panels didn't fit perfectly (doors wasn't able to close completely). Putting a washer between the panels and hinges helped (not bellow the bolt, but behind the glass). Post processing printed parts (getting rid of elephant foot) should help too. I tried my best to write the instructions, but **there may be some issues**. Please, check before printing / assembly and let me know if everything is all right. **Update 15. April 2021:** Added NutLock.stl to fix the nuts, useful especially for the top parts. If you would remove the glass panels and don't have nuts locked in place, they would fall down inside the parts and it would be hard to get them back.
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