Direct Driven Quick Tool Change
Description
I wanted to have a tool changing mechanism and a direct drive extruder on my CR-10. I ended up mashing several things together that were already great by themselves (Thingiverse wont let me link them as remixed). Now I print flexible filaments with ease, swap hotends instead of cleaning or changing nozzles for different materials and print with high speeds (thanks to Klipper). The hotend-bracket has a mounting option for using the included fanduct, that is heavily inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091560, but using mostly .4mm walls. The original design should fit as well. _____________________ How does it work? ============== Put your tool on the quick change bracket in the holder, fasten it with the lever, slide the motor mount on, done. What you need ==================== For the tool change thing: m4×16 bolt, a nut and washer. The lever from the original design(3369444) (The bracket of the remix for making your own tool holders) (3816051) For the motor mount: The end-stop spacer from the original design (3816051) A BMG extruder and a pancake stepper motor ~25mm PTFE tube For the fan duct: 5-7 M3 screws - depending on your fans Assembly ======== First, make sure to chek out the descritpions of the Quick Tool Change (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3369444), its remix Light? Quick Tool Change (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4116425), and the SpeedDrive (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051). This design is a combination of these three. Print all files you need and make sure to check the originally posted designs as their descriptions contain some information on what you are about to do. Disassemble your printer's carriage plate (good opportunity to check the wheels and clean everything) and remove the hotend. Remove the extruder and its motor from the frame. Press the aluminum spacers in the Lock_release, insert the nuts and the wheels, and put the whole thing on the carriage plate. Put the Bracket_release on the front and fasten the two upper screws. Add the lever with a M4 bolt and use a washer.place the carriage plate back onto your printer. Insert the belts and fasten the bottom wheel with the remaining screw. Use the eccentric nut to adjust the pressure between wheels an profile. Make sure the wheels turn easily but can not slip. Assemble the hotend with the cooling parts to the Hotend_Bracket (by following the instructions of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763931, although any order should work with these parts). Screw the screws directly into the plastic. Stick a short PTFE tube into the hotend, so that it sticks out approx 25mm. Put in in place and fasten with the lever. Put the thing called Stoppen into your extruder. Insert a piece of PTFE tube so that it's flush with the underside of your extruder, not the underside of the Stoppen. You want to clip the PTFE tube coming from the hotend in there. Assemble the extruder and motor to the motor mount. Now slide the motor mount onto the carriage plate. Cut the PFTE tube coming from the hotend so that it can clip into the Stoppen. Ideally there is as little a gap as possible between the two tubes now. The motor mount should be flush with the Lock release both front and back and just touch the lever. The filament path should be straight without bends. You are done. Adjust your bed height, re-check the screws, so nothing rattles around, no cable should be bent. Happy printing! _______________ I do not take responsibility for anything you do to your printer. Especially hitting the frame with the extruder motor because you forgot to add the end-stop spacer or adjust the height of the print bed. This is what worked well for my CR-10. It took several iterations to get it working properly, so this might be the final version fitting any CR-10, and maybe the Ender series printers, idk. But still, watch your printer closely while printing after changing anything yourself and be ready to shut it down.
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