Rigid mounting adapter for Trianglelabs Dragon hotend.
Description
Rigid mount that replaces the v6 front and back clamps of the v6 hydra remix. In theory this should allow one handed nozzle changes for the dragon. your nozzle offset and direct drive tube length may vary. (nozzle gets moved a couple mm or so downwards, dd tube length practically unchanged) tested both v3 and v4 working, use v4 (v3 stl is kept around just because it technically fits and works) Print out of a high temperature material. the top of the heatsink can get pretty toasty especially when printing higher temp materials enclosed. asa/abs/hips/pc/nylon(a rigid pa12 or cf fill one for sure) at the very least. if you are made of money and/or have the capabilities to print it then of course peek/pei is ideal and has a pretty much 0% chance of ever melting down in this setup. Keep at least one spare printed just in case. Big thanks to newphreak with helping me with merging my groovemount replacement/fix with the front and back clamp parts of the hydra. Print at your own risk. Mounting hardware for the hotend is the 4 m2.5x8 screws that are included with the dragon. EDIT 1: new file ending in "v3" released that has the screw holes rotated by 45 degrees to the original design. this was a design oversight and the original stl will not work properly. Edit 2: tested it and it seems to work although tolerances are a tad too tight for my printer although i was overextruding slightly. v4 available with looser tolerances and also expanded tube coupler inner area to hopefully minimize the issue of the tube getting almost permanently coupled in the coupler. with dd and a tube of exactly the right length you might be able to get away without using the coupler at all. EDIT 3: v4 is confirmed working and the coupler should no longer chew up the bowden tube (as much, still seems it might be a bit tight but should be fine for most everything. at least the tube shouldnt pop out on its own ever) and make it impossible to remove. screws also have more clearance to not thread into the plastic making it easier to screw in to the dragon. i printed version 4 using version 3 that was made from HIPS inside an enclosure and can report of no deformation. if you dont print enclosed and dont exceed like 260c on the hotend you might be able to get away with petg for this part. a dimensionally stable made for annealing pla such as formfutura volcano pla might work too but cant guarantee. as always, use at your own risk and have at least one spare printed. if this part fails you have pretty much no way of printing another. EDIT 4: v5 up with yet again improved tube coupler with an internal chamfer. this should allow the tube to be tight but not crushed and should make it safe for use on bowden too. if you are running dd and are satisfied with v4 you can keep using it its otherwise the same.
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