Bowden Tube Lock (revised)

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This is a slight remix of my own [PC4-M10 Bowden tube lock](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4566395). I realised that with better accuracy of the printer (have a new CR-10V2 now) I had to reduce the tollerance/gap between inner and outher thread so that the tube will still be locked well when the cap is fully screwed on. The old version was simply to loose now. I have these connector locks in use now for several months and I'm very happy with them.The PTFE tube does not move anymore and the connector doesn't loosen over time, even with heavy retracts during print (which used to loosen the connector ring after a while). I use the long version for the extruder end to maximize the grip on the tube. I also extended the base half a millimeter so that the base really touches the extruder and can not be "pulled" during retracts.(Distance between bottom and connector ring is now 10mm, if you have shorter connectors, lower the print in Cura to cut of a millimeter or so from the bottom of the base) On the print head end of the tube the short version is more than enough, because the tube is anyway "stuck" in the heat sink. (at least on Creality and other MK8 hot ends) and there is not much force at the "far end" of the tube. Therefore I still provided three variants - long version (preferred at extruder) - short version (preferred at print head) - short base with some extra space on one side for the print head mounting screw (for classic Creality/Ender print heads (not needed for V2)) Sorry for the relatively large STL files (don't know why especially the cap files are huge), I exported them from OnShape in fine resolution for perfect and detailed prints. ___Update 2021-07-03___ I extended the base of the short version a bit to make sure it sits on the hot end and prevents the lock ring to be pulled down. The distance between the ring and the bottom is now 10.6mm (old: 10mm). (looks like the stock 10mm was just not enough for the stock connector of the Creality CR-10 V2). I also turned the thread 90° to have both sides connected to the base firmly. The thread now ends in the middle of the right half, i.e. the thin end of the thread is combined with the broad base of the thread. (before the right part broke more easily and end of thread)

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