Yep, its another HexLED - NanoLeaf Panel! (with STEP file)

Description

I removed the earlier design right after posting it to make some improvements to some of the components I used for this project. The updated design is done and although I am happy with it, I have to make it known that I could not find an "appropriate" DC switch to use with this. Most small switches seem to be rated for AC current, which I believe will have a higher current rating than an equivalent DC switch, though I am not a switch expert (I'm just a hobbyist when it comes to electronics). As I am using a 4A 5V DC power supply, and the switch I am using is rated for "AC 250V/6A 125V/10A" I think it should work OK, but again I am not an expert on this, so make your own analysis regarding the switch. I based the choice of switch I am using on the fact that I will be pushing a much lower current and voltage though the switch (in DC) than what the switch is rated for in AC. That said, I would recommend that anyone making this consider the components used, and make their own choices on what is appropriate. In other words, <strong>THIS IS A MAKE IT AT YOUR OWN RISK PROJECT.</strong> Original description: When I saw NerdForge's HexaLeaf LED Panels (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3466746), I thought the idea of an app controlled LED panel was awesome. So I decided to make something similar, which would use his code and electronics design, but could be fully printed (including the screens). This is not a remix, but it does require using NerdForge's code (https://github.com/hansjny/Natural-Nerd/tree/master/Hexaleaf), and a similar electronics design to his (Nerdforge Schematic here - https://imgur.com/a/Zbh80aO). His code and design can easily be adapted to any LED panels and works very well, <strong>so big thanks to NerdForge for sharing his project!</strong> I suggest that if you plan on making this, and using his code, please check out his YouTube channel and consider supporting his projects on Patreon (https://www.patreon.com/nerdforge). For my panels, I decided to use 60 pixel/meter WS2812B ECO RGB LED strips which run on 5V, which removes the need for a buck converter to power the ESP-32S. I did stick with an ESP-32S though, which seems like overkill for a project like this, but no complaints on the function. For more info describing how I built my panels (which are pictured), you can find a build log on my site here (includes the Bill of Materials): http://www.mystoopidstuff.com/hexled-panels-assembly.html I also posted some info here on how to get the top support pattern effect on the front screens (this gives the front screens some texture): http://www.mystoopidstuff.com/printing-the-hexled-panel-screens And below I posted info on how to get the Blynk App to work with NerdForge's code. He documented everything really well in his Patreon video, but the Blynk setup was not covered anywhere I can find, so I'm posting some info below, in case it helps folks get up and running. http://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blynk-setup-for-nerdforges-hexaleaf.html A couple notes on the design though, this is completed and it went together well for me. To avoid problems, I recommend doing a flow and horizontal expansion calibration for each filament being used, prior to starting. Because parts are tight it can save some headaches later. I did this before setting out to print these, and everything went together without requiring any significant post processing to fit parts. If in doubt though, it's a good idea to print one part before batching a bunch to make sure they all fit with parts already printed. Although I like the way the design goes together, I did re-work the part which clips the LED strings ends together, since I did not like that it allowed a sharp bend. The part posted here is what I think is an improved design (but I am open to feedback). To hopefully help avoid pitfalls, here are some problems or annoyances which may help to be mindful of: * Wood PLA is stringy and abrasive, if using it, try a 0.6mm steel or hardened nozzle as I did (had no problems with it). It can help to slow it down and it pays to get the retraction tuned beforehand as well. * Most parts don't need supports, but some will, no avoiding it. They can however be minimized by using a low density (10%), high overhang angle (>70%), and simple pattern like "Lines". The Electronics Base needs the most and will be hardest to clean, but using minimal supports will make it much easier. * Cura's support blocker can be used to avoid supports in the cable management points. * I only used supports "touching the build plate" on the regular side pieces (the electronics box side needs them everywhere). * The maximum current (all LED's on) will depend on the number of LEDs being used. The max current will dictate what power supply, wire gauge, switch type, DC jack and fuse value is used. Please make your own decisions on the components used, and don't go with what I used, since every project is different. And to be safe, the wire gauge, fuse value and power supply specifications should be appropriate for your project and the power it requires (don't simply copy what I used). * For my panels, I used a printed fuse holder design from another user here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1787609). However if you plan to use it, or something similar, please see the comments for that thing, and note that it was suggested to print using a high temperature, flame retardant filament. If you have a concern, I would suggest instead to use a commercially available fuse holder, since the case has plenty of room and there are versions provided without the fuse and button holes. If you choose to use a commercial fuse holder placed inside the case, there is a version of the side part for the electronic base which covers the hole for the fuse (LED-Hexagon-9F-TRONICS-SIDE-NOFUSE.stl). * Use heat shrink to insulate the ends of the LED strips once they are soldered to wires to extend them. * <strong>Be careful not to bend the LED strips sharply.</strong> I allowed the LEDs that fall in the corners of the boxes to "float", <strong>the LED Strips should not be pressed into the corners which could bend them too sharply</strong>. * It would be a good idea to bench test the setup prior to final assembly of the back covers, to see if adding additional power points to the middle or end would help. I had to go back and add power to the middle and end, after I thought it was done, since I noticed dimmer LEDs at the end of the strip. I could have saved time by doing a test first. Also, use an appropriate gauge wire for any power extensions needed. * The buttons are not implemented. I may post a version or the electronics box side which has them blocked out but for now I just installed them and connected them but have not coded to enable them. Even if I do enable them, I don't know if I would get permission to post derivative code. * My panels started to fall off the wall when one of the wall hooks gave way (failure of the adheasive holding it), so I updated the design to have a hole to add a 14 gauge nail. You may need to run a drill though it if your nails do not fit, I did just to make them slide smoothly. I'd suggest using at least 3 or 4 wall hanging hooks depending on the size. For my 10 panel setup I use 3 hangers, two of them have nails and the other just uses a command strip. Overall, this was a somewhat complex build but I'm happy with how mine went together and turned out. I don't claim that it's perfect though, so if you see something that can be improved please leave a comment. A STEP file with all the final models is posted here, to make remixing easy. I only ask that if you make a change you like, please share your remix so everyone can benefit. I used Hatchbox Wood PLA for the sides and regular PETG for the other parts. For electronics projects, I am now trying to use PETG since it has a higher softening temp than PLA. <strong>Finally, like most things, there are no guarantees, and I make none with respect to this design. Making this thing requires a bit of understanding of electronics and Arduinos (mainly how to use the IDE and install libraries), as well as soldering (protect yer eyeballs!). The NerdForge Videos are helpful to see how to set up his code. For safety I recommend using a fuse of some type, since there is plenty of room to add any type of commercial fuse holder, and they are cheap. If you choose to use a printed fuse holder, it seems a good idea to print using a high temp fire retardant filament. Please also note that depending on how many LED's you use, the maximum current and therefore the appropriate gauge wire, power supply choice, fuse choice, switch and DC connector components will change (ex: more LED's = more current which means thicker gauge wires and more robust componets should be used). Point is, there is no one size fits all for this, or any bespoke LED setups, and many variations are possible. The important thing is to be safe, learn stuff, and research or ask questions if unsure. </strong> <strong>If you see something I should correct here, please let me know. I am not an electronics expert, and I don't claim to be an expert on this stuff, only a hobbyist.</strong> <strong> And as always, if you make or use one of these, it is at your own risk. Also, please don't run with scissors, always wear safety glasses, and do your own research, and have fun! </strong> Update 11-9-2021: I recently saw another hex panel design which I can no longer locate, but they used WLED to control it. Not to take anything away from NerdForge who graciously provided his code for making LED panels, but WLED looks like a much better way to go at this point, than using Blynk, and has many more features. WLED is here (https://github.com/atuline/WLED/). I'm planning to upgrade mine to WLED when I get some time.

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