Predator Dragon 5015 Effector for stock and magball arms
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THIS IS STILL A WORK IN PROGRESS, THERE WILL LIKELY BE FITMENT ISSUES BUT SHOULD OTHERWISE BE FUNCTIONAL. SOME OF THESE PARTS I HAVE NOT TESTED NOR DO I PLAN TO TEST. UPDATE: I have added a version for magballs along with a carriage adapter and housing for the stock level sensor. I've personally switched to linear rails so I haven't bothered with the carriage adapter provided but it should work fine, I made a test version a while back and everything seemed to fit/work okay. The parts for the linear rails are coming at a later date after I have made some improvements. The spacing between the magballs on the effector and the carriages needs to be very close, with this design it's somewhat finicky to get this right, but I was able to get everything within about 0.05 mm on mine. The level sensor housing just slides into the slot of the front of the effector, I have no idea if it matches the stock z offset, so it may not work if you're using the stock board/firmware. The magball effector was intended to be used with Hayden's 6mm magball arms. His 10mm arms will probably not work as the clearances are fairly tight. I have removed V1 and have added 1.1 and 1.2 in its place, 1.1 fixes a few issues that v1 had and 1.2 adds compatibility with the dovetail stock level sensor housing. _________________________________________________________________ The idea behind this project is the make an ultra ridged effector that incorporates the fan duct into the structure, that is lighter than the stock effector, and adds a little bit of Z height to the printer. I am making a magball version based on this design. The Predator 5015 Effector Dragon Standard is the newer improved version that I am working on however it's completely untested, I don't plan to test it as I'm moving onto using magballs. Since my upcoming magball effector is largely based on this design, I may update it if there are any improvements that I make from the magball design that I can pass onto this one. Predator Dragon High Flow 5015 Effector OLD.stl has been tested, it works fine, most of the holes are not perfectly sized, you will need to drill them out a bit. It's probably only compatible with the Phaetus heat block. This is not ideal for the standard flow version, as the heatbreak fins are lower. It has a bit of a down draft issue, which may cause problems with filaments like nylon, ABS or PC. The dragon effector top version b is for the bowden tube holder that comes with the dragon hotend. I have not tested it, there may be some clearence issues, it may work fine, regardless you'll probably need to drill out the holes. The effector top version A is for the M10 threaded bowden tube fitting, this one should be more polished, and it is the one I personally use. The Piezo Sensor Effector Top is for a piezo disk with a hole in the middle, I have tested this to make sure it fits, and the piezo sensor triggers properly, I may tweak it a bit but this should function fine. You will need a variety of M3 screws, 5mm diameter, 6mm long M3 threaded inserts, and of course 5015 fans. The opening for the 5015 fans can be too tight for some fans, they fit mine perfectly but there is a lot of variation among 5015 fans so you may have to file or sand out the opening a bit. I may post better instructions at a later date when this project is complete. For the stock level sensor adaptor you will need 6mm round magnets, the holes may not be perfect, if they aren't you can sacrifice one of the magnets, heat it up and press it into the holes, pull it out and super glue a new one(heating up the magnet will make it non magnetic). Hole sizes vary from slicer to slicer and nozzle diameter so you may or may not need to heat press in a magnet to get them to fit. None of these models should need any support, I try to avoid them if at all possible, but you will need to be able to bridge somewhat decently. I personally used Overture Easy Nylon, it's very stiff for a nylon that doesn't seem to creep and works well for parts like this, however ABS, ASA, polycarbonate or PC/ABS blends would probably be better. Nylon typically isn't recommended for parts like this but there is a lot of different variations of nylon out there, so just make sure it's a stiff one that is rigid doesn't cold creep. I plan on testing Alloy 910 high heat next to see how it performs, but I'll probably just go with some blue ABS or the Overture Nylon again on the next version.
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