Falcon 9 lamp & desk tidy - arduino
Description
***UPDATES:*** *22/08/21* New version includes 'twice power off reset', meaning if the arduino is reset/powered off twice in a row, with no user actions in between, the arduino will assume that there has been a critical error, and will force a hard reset to reset all variables/EEPROM. First Upload EEPROM setup has also been added. *03/08/21* Code has been updated (hopefully for the final time), the full release version has finally been released, this version explains *every* single line of code, in depth, to allow new (and experienced), programmers to understand the code better. Enjoy!!! *15/07/21* Code has been updated again, this is a patch to fix common issues in the prior version *13/07/21* Code updated, added power loss recovery, if the Arduino is powered off, it will remember and revert to its last state **** After many late nights, *way too much coffee*, and a lot of hard work, here it is: This project has been the most exciting project we have ever worked on, and we are so happy to be able to share it, in all its glory, with the world. In total we have been working on this project for 64 days, and every day was worth it. There has been so many delays and setbacks, but we think it has come out alright in the end. The original design used the Kitronik Alarm PCB, but we had multiple issues with getting the two boards to work together, we have left the mount piece for this in the design for if someone wishes to try to get the two to work together, the original design also included a transistor for controlling the Kitronik Alarm PCB on/off, this has also been removed. The project is fully 3d printed, with an 8 LED neopixel ring, an Arduino Uno, A piezo buzzer, an infrared receiver (+ remote), a push switch, and wire. (Including all the tools necessary to use these). And optionally, a 1000μf capacitor and a 400 OHM resistor (or any resistors totalling up to that value). + Piezo buzzer - https://kitronik.co.uk/products/piezo-buzzer-with-drive + Arduino Uno - https://store.arduino.cc/arduino-uno-rev3 + 8 LED neopixel ring - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cool-Components-LED-32mm-Ring/dp/B07NLFP8BN + IR Remote and Receiver - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Youmile-Infrared-Receiver-Wireless-Control/dp/B07RFB5KCT + Push Switch - https://kitronik.co.uk/products/micro-switch-with-medium-lever Check out the latest version of the code: https://www.simpson3d.co.uk/arduino/neopixel-lamp-alarm/code (Code may update up to 1-2 times a month) **** ****ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS**** Check out the wiring diagram here: *https://www.simpson3d.co.uk/arduino/neopixel-lamp-alarm/wiring-diagram* Check out the latest code here: *https://www.simpson3d.co.uk/arduino/neopixel-lamp-alarm/code* **** **Credits section:** Thank you to [AntsInAfrica](https://www.thingiverse.com/antsinafrica) (Check out his amazing designs), for designing the awesome fairing and upper stage design, as well as being the inventor of my favourite spherical locking mechanism of all time. Thanks to [metacollin](https://www.thingiverse.com/metacollin) for the hollow exhaust plume design (which is a remix of [Doctorwatson's](https://www.thingiverse.com/doctorwatson) smoke plume) Thanks to [Esquilo](https://www.thingiverse.com/esquilo) for creating the awesome Arduino mount. Also, thanks to the great Team at [Adafruit Industries](https://www.adafruit.com/), for helping to troubleshoot coding issues and queries And finally, thank you to ***YOU*** for taking the time to look at our project. **** **Quick explanation of all the files:** **BASE_BASE_V3.stl** So, this is the base.... for the base, it is a thin block that is perfectly shaped to the shape of the base, it should friction-fit in place, but could require some hot glue to get a secure fit. This piece does not need any supports. **BASE_V5_+_HOLDER_STL.stl** This is the living, breathing heart of the project, it contains (almost) all the electronics, and serves as the base for the whole lamp. For assembly we recommend pulling the cables for the Neopixel ring through the provided hole, and then soldering the connections. The mount for the Arduino Uno *may* be a bit tight, to fix this you could file the gap for the ports down, or physically file down the DC power Jack (I have found this port to cause the most pain), even then you may need to use a reasonable amount of force to push the Arduino in, as this is part of its locking mechanism to prevent it from falling out. You can add some M3 screws, but these are optional. For printing, we recommend printing upside-down, with the top facing the build plate, this reduces the amount of supports necessary. **Smoke.stl** This is the smoke piece that lights up with the neopixels, supports are needed for this piece. We recommend printing at 15-20% infill so that the print is both thin enough to emit the light, and strong enough to support the whole piece. **Engine_4.stl** This is most probably the coolest looking part of the design, the engine piece connects the bottom and top sections of the model together, this piece needs no supports, and should be printed at around 30%+ infill as this is a key part of the model. **TOP_V2.stl** This is the largest part of the model, this piece acts as the centrepiece of magnificence, the pièce de résistance of the project. This piece needs supports (****IMPORTANT:**** **only use build plate only supports, or the supports will be printed internally, and become stuck**), no build plate adhesion (rafts, brims) are needed. **Nose_6.stl** This piece is the top of the rocket, no supports are needed, and this should be printed "as is", it is important to make sure you have *no* elephants’ foot, otherwise the nosecone will not fit. **RGB_IR_code_10.5.0_RELEASE.ino** This is the latest version of the code, all necessary details can be found in the file You can find out more about the code here: https://www.simpson3d.co.uk/arduino/neopixel-lamp-alarm/code **Note: The Arduino IDE is required to upload the code**
Statistics
Likes
2
Downloads
0