LED corner lamp

Description

I wanted to make smart LED corner lamp, but none that I found here on thingiverse wasn't doing it for me, so I decided to have a go myself using tinkercad. Parts used: - sk6812 LED strip - I used 1,5 meter of 60leds/meter strip (90 leds in total) from BTF-lighting - MEAN WELL RS-25-5 power suply - 5V, 25W, the lamp is made to fit specificaly this unit, cheaper, chinese power supplys are usually little bit larger, so make sure that yours fit inside the lamp body, or make sure to make some adjustments - QuinLED-Dig-Uno - you could use any ESP8266/ESP32 board, for example just the D1-mini with resistor and large capacitor, but I like the Dig-Uno as it's nice package. - mains power cord - LED strip aluminium corner profile with endcap - I used the one in the picture (18,5mm side dimensions) with white difuser - wiring and stuff - you need wires of adequate dimensions to handle the amps, as well as long cables for power injection from the other side of the the strip, bunch of fork conectors to make nice conections to the powersuply, plus (optional) thin wires for the button - lead bar - I used 1/2 pound lead ingot (lee precision casting mold) just to weight things down, beacouse that's just what I had at hand. - 3mm screw for the powersuply and 2/2,5mm for the cable tensioner - (optional) TTP223 capacitive touch switch - I prefer to always have hardware on/off switch on my lights in adition to wifi control. - car fuse holder with adequate fuse - actualy not necessary as Dig-Uno can handle up to 10 Amps of current and is already fused, but I just never push the main power through the controler, can be skipped to simplify things Parts of this are insipired a remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153725 Finishing the print: Superglue four legs to the bottom, so the is free space for the air flow to cool the powersuply. The aluminium profile is just tight tolerance/friction fit I ended up not needing to use any glue there. The lid is a snap fit, but I used some hot glue to bind it togerher, to prevent the whole body form bending under the weigth of the long aluminium profile and to make it more rigid. Wiring and electronics: Powersuply can be screwed in place by two 3mm screws, as well as the Dig-Uno board. after pushing the power cable through the tiny hole add some crimp on fork connectors, conect it to he powersuply and don't forget to clamp it down tight with the cable tensioner! Conecting of the Dig-Uno is quite straight forward. I used V+,V-,data line from botom of the strip directly from the Dig-Uno plus two power injection wires (you can run them in the back triangle of the aluminum profile. I was just dumb and used way too large diameter of wires, so they didn't fit there...) (Optional) I spent quite some time figuring out how to get the ttp223 button workd with WLED, but in the end I managed to do it! 1) solder/bridge together the A jumper of the ttp223 and remove the LED resistor to disable the led 2)solder 3 wires to the button and run them through the backchanel of the aluminium profile down to the controler. I positioned the button right on the top of the lamp and as it's capacitive switch I hid it under the difuser 3) Conect to he Dig-Uno to 3.3V, GND and the i/o to the Q3 (D6 on D1mini, GPIO12 of the ESP8266 - can be pulled high) 4) in the WLED settings don't forget to enable the button a set the button pin to 12) 5) then just adjust some presets and assign them to the button presses. long press: T=2 (toggle light) short press: P1=5&P2=10&PL=~ (cycles through presets 5-10) I use it connected to Homeassistant and controle it by Ikea Tradfri 5 button round switch through ZHA. It works like a charm.

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