Rework/Rebuild of Anet A8 (Requiring minimal workshop skills)
Description
[2021-08-19 Progressing! All parts except the y-motor mount for the LB version [250 x 250 x 250mm build volume] are printed but not yet assembled. Development of the BB [300 x 300 x 300mm build volume] is on hold until the LB is proven and more filament arrives. Both sizes of printer now share the same x and z-carriage assemblies so the distance between the lead screw and z-axis guide rod differ from the standard A8 dimensions. The z-carriage allows for either a T8 or T10 lead screw.] It was never my intention to post this, but maybe this makes me answerable to any questions like “Why the hell did you…?” and as a work in progress perhaps folks will push me along to the next stage if it actually has merit. It is a rebuild of my cheap, knock-off Anet A8 clone so that I could improve the rigidity in all axes; so that I could build another printer and so that I could use the design to create a printer with a bigger build volume. Currently a 250 x 250 heated bed (for the LB version) and a 300 x 300 for the BB [Big Brother] version. Last week it was happily printing at 100mm/sec with more improvements planned! It has similarities to the Mendel printers, which may be a better option for those wanting to stiffen things up with threaded rods and the Ecksbot [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26354] looked to be a very tempting project. Ostensibly mine uses the original A8 parts, but many have been upgraded in the process, ie: drive belts are now 10mm and the reworked x-carriage moves on plain rods offset in the z-axis and y-axis – shown on my CAD image. As the y-motor kicked in I noticed a lot of flex on my original A8 frame that had an affect on the y-axis plain rods. The odd looking braces actually form a tripod with the z-axis plain rod forming one of the legs and makes the z-axis very stable. The LB rebuild uses a combination of 8mm lead screws, 8 and 10mm plain rods and 8 and 10mm threaded rods. The BB [Big Brother] version uses 10mm lead screws, 10mm plain rods and 10 and 12mm threaded rods. The red (BB) part-print shows the hexagonal recess for a nut or lock nut at the bottom end of the brace and differs slightly from the upload as I added a recess for the nuts on the y-direction threaded rod for the sake of it being able to fit within my existing printer enclosure. All other parts are designed, tested and being used, but I will post them once they have been proven to work in their print friendly versions… Yes, obviously I’m not big on keeping a clean, tidy build plate – make it stick at all costs and get on with the next print!
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