Plinking Spinner Target

Description

https://youtu.be/FgvKmA3bWag https://youtu.be/eF2V_fm207s UPDATE - 8/6/2021 - Holes enlarged for easier assembly. Giggity. This is a Spinning / Self-Resetting Plinking Target. I had some left over rods and bearings from a Spool Holder that I printed from someone's thingiverse. So I decided to find a way to put the extra parts to good use. I had previously attempted to make something like this by hand and without a bearing, but it wasn't nearly as nice. This has been printed, tested, then tweaked to perfection. The Rod holder mount can be used to mount to just about anything that a screw can tap. I have a large chain-link fence at the back of my yard with a rounded cap on it. So I also created a cover that I can mount the rod holder on to. I have not tested that part yet, but if you check the video and pictures, you can see I've tested this by mounting to a tree. I printed this using: Ender 3 Pro - SKR v1.4Turbo - TCM2209 x 5 - Dual Z Axis - BIQU H2 Extruder- BLTouch v1.3 - Klipper Stainless Steel Rod x4: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XP4H2K5 Skateboard Bearing x10: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7PR72H Metric Screw Kit (useful for many things): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SWNV5N Assembly: Place 4 x M4 Nuts inside the round base nut grooves. --If nuts don't fit, screw M4 in from other side and tighten until nut sinks into place. --Then remove screw and repeat 3 more times, until all nuts are in place. The stainless steel rod needs to be hammered down into the Rod Holder. -I was able to achieve this simply by holding Rod Holder upside and banging rod on a solid surface that won't get damaged. The bearing will need to be hammered onto the end of the steel rod, so that it's flush with the end of the rod. --I was able to achieve this with just the edge of my plyers. The round Base piece w/ nuts in place, should now be pressed onto the bearing that was pressed onto the rod, until bearing will go no further. --Also achieved by banging on a solid surface. Take a metal coat hanger and heavy duty wire cutters, then make 5 cuts. (See Pic) --2 x Just above the first curve near the neck unwound hanger hook --Ben the newly cut edges down and where the center arches meet, that should be center. you need to cut there for roughly 2 even halves --Now, 2 more cuts, about 3/4" up from the bend of what would the far edges of the hanger. You should now have 4 somewhat even metal sticks w/ hooked edges. Now take the round Cap piece and 4 x M4-12 button head screws. --The screws need to fit loosely in these 4 holes on the cap. --If needed, overtighten the screws in the cap ONLY to break free of any threading it cuts on first tighten. --This is can also be achieved by drilling out the hole if needed. This is so the cap can be tightened down via the nuts in the base. Place the 4 x M4-12's into the side where the widened holes are, so the screw heads will be counter-sunk into the cap. --Start by screwing each screw thru cap and partially into the base. Insert straight ends of the metal hanger sticks and tighten down screws until there is no play. --DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN - Power drill not recommended. This will crack the base. Now just bunch up some aluminum foil sheets into balls as cheap and easy to use/replace target that will not cause ricochet. --Other items will work, just try and maintain a balance. --If you mount this upright, you can use empty pop cans, but lifting the pop tab and turning the hook endings upward. The Rod Holder has 2 x 4mm holes for either 2 x M4 screws to attach to another mounting system (still in the works) OR simply use wood screws and attach to a tree or a fence or a whatever floats your boat. ****DISCLAIMER**** Please be safe when Plinking! Use of PPE is recommended. (Personal Protective Equipment) Make sure you are using a safe backdrop. You are responsible for your own actions. I take no responsibility for any misuses or negligent acts while using my design.

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