Bondtech DDX (V2 or V3) Dual Partcooler with BLTouch & Hotend Ring Light

Description

Bondtech DDX (V2 or V3) Dual Partcooler with or without LED (3mm) mount and BLTouch and hotend ring Light. These Dual Partcooler Fan Ducts original are from @MightyBlyatman and are called "Bondtech DDX Dual Partcooler" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4645128) These Dual Partcooler Fan Ducts will work with both V2 and V3 DDX For Creality Ender/CR-10(S). The DDX housing (v2 or v3) and my setup will fit on the following Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro X-Axis plates: 1. 3Dfused modified X-Axis linear Rail plate (https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-xz-axis-linear-rail-kit/); 2. 3Dfused's Linear Rail Direct Drive Mount Kit plate (https://3dfused.com/product/linear-rail-direct-drive-mount-kit/), but if you want to use the3Dfused's Linear Rail Direct Drive Mount Kit plate then you will not be able to use the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part or the "DDX_ADXL345.stl" part; 3. Original Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro Extruder Back Support Plate (https://www.amazon.com/ULTECHNOVO-Original-Accessory-Extruding-Backplate/dp/B083VXMH5H); 4. PrinterMods MDD - THE CREALITY ENDER-3, ENDER-5 & CR-10 DIRECT DRIVE KIT - NEW V1.3 (https://printermods.com/products/direct-drive-mod-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10). If you still have not bought the DDX from bondtech this is what I would do if I could do it all over again. To give myself the best flexibility for mounting options for the Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro. I would buy the "Bondtech DDX For Creality Ender/CR-10(S)" (https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-ddx-for-creality-ender-cr-10s/) and for $24 more purchase the "DDX v3 Front Housing PA12 (https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddx-v3-front-housing-pa12/). This way you have the DDX v2 and V3 front housing which means you can use any fan shroud you want. I bought the "Bondtech DDX v3 For Creality Ender/CR-10(S)" and then found out about the different fan shroud mountings that existed between the two versions of the DDX and the only way I could get the DDX v2 front housing was to purchase another DDX but this time purchase the whole DDX v2 unit. Bondtech does not sell the DDX v2 front housing by itself like they do for the DDX v3. So instead of spending only an additional $24 I spent another $127. Before I get into what I did to build my DDX Fan ducts setup. I need to make the user aware that these fan Ducts WILL NOT WORK for a Slice Engineering Copperhead heat sink, a slice Engineering Mosquito/Mosquito Magnum hotend or Dragon/Dragonfly hotends or Nova Hotend [let's call these the longer hotends]. The Fan ducts located in this repository are too short for these longer hotends. The DDX (V2 or V3) units are not compatible with V6 hotends or any hotend with a grove mount that is not removable. The Fan ducts that WILL WORK for a Full Copperhead (using the copperhead heat sink) hotend or Mosquito/Mosquito Magnum hotend or Dragon/Dragonfly hotend or Nova hotend [longer hotends] are the 5015 fan duct shroud from Bontech but you must buy the correct fan shroud for the version of the DDX. The bondtech fan shrouds will also allow you to use a BLTouch unit (you can buy the BLTouch mount from bondtech [https://www.bondtech.se/product/sls-universal-bl-touch-mount-for-ddx/]). On the bondtech website the DDX V2 is listed as plain "DDX without a version number". On the bondtech website the DDX V3 is listed as "DDX v3". The major difference between the DDX versions is the way the Fan shrouds are attached to the front of the DDX unit. The DDX v2 has a hole in which an M3 screw is used to attach the v2 fan shrouds to the unit from the inside of the unit. The DDX v3 has a square mounting piece that protrudes out and the screw attaches to this protruding mounting piece. If you have a modified Ender 3 that uses the 3DFused linear rails for the X-Axis (https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-xz-axis-linear-rail-kit/) and you want to use the creality heatsink or the Micro-Swiss hotend (short hotends) then you will not be able to use the bondtech fan shrouds because part of the bondtech fan shroud will go under the X-Axis. With the modified X-Axis from 3DFused the X-Axis will block the bontech fan shroud from going under the X-Axis. If you do not want to buy a fan shroud for a Full Copperhead (using the copperhead heat sink) hotend or Mosquito/Mosquito Magnum hotend or Dragon/Dragonfly hotend or Nova hotend [longer hotends], I know this 5015 fan shroud will work for DDX v2 (not DDX v3) but you need to print out the bracket that connects to the 5015 fan which then mounts the whole unit to the DDX v2. The .stl file you need to download is called "DDX 5015 Fan Holder", please see https://www.bondtech.se/customer-service/faq/. The printable fan shroud you can use with the longer hotends and is located at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4828443 but you will NOT be able to use a BLTouch mount with this part. This fans shroud will also work for Ender 3 that has the 3DFused modified X-Axis installed (https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-xz-axis-linear-rail-kit/). Please see https://www.bondtech.se/customer-service/faq/ for printable DDX v2 fan shrouds. Realize that the V2 Fan shroud's will NOT fit onto the V3 DDX and V3 Fan shroud's will NOT fit onto the V2 DDX. If you want to use any of the following hotends (longer hotends) you will need to use the appropriate fan shroud for your hotend (https://www.bondtech.se/product-category/upgrade-kits/creality3d/ddx-direct-drive-extruder/ddx-accessories/): 1. Slice Engineering Mosquito; 2. Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum; 3. Dragon; 4. Dragonfly; and 5. Nova. You can find the DDX V2 at https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-ddx-for-creality-cr-10-pro-max/. You can find the DDX V3 at https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-ddx-v3-for-creality-cr-10-s-pro-max/. The Fan Ducts in this repository will work for the following: 1. Creality Standard hotend (the one shipped with the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro); 2. Creality Heatsink with Slice Engineering C-E Heartbreak and Slice Engineering Copperhead Heater block - this is my setup; 3. Creality Heatsink with Bi-metal heatbreak of your choosing and Heater block of your choosing; and 4. Micro-Swiss All metal Hotend (DDX v1 may require you to reshape the top of the hotend. Use methanol on sandpaper or a sander to make it fit in DDX v1. Precision is not critical; Reshaping the top of the Micro-swiss is NOT necessary for DDX v2 or DDX v3). In other words, it will work with hotends that are the same length as the creality standard hotend (I refer to these as shoter hotends)! If you wanted to use these fan ducts with a Slice Engineering Cooper head heat sink or Mosquito/Mosquito Mangum or Dragon/Dragonfly or Nova Hotend [I refer to these as longer hotends] then you will need to use the CAD file and stretch the Fan ducts to accommodate the longer hotend. I decided to try and use the creality heat sink in combination with the rest of the copperhead parts from Slice Engineering. I know the original designer of the fan ducts used Micro-Swiss Hotend. When you buy the Bondtech DDX you will need to get and additional hotend adapter if you are not using the creality hotend heat sink. So if you are using a Micro-Swiss hotend and DDX v1 then you may need sand down the corners of the Micro-Swiss hotend and print out one of these DDX hotend adapters. If you are using a Micro-Swiss hotend and DDX v2/DDX v3, reshaping the top of the Micro-swiss is NOT necessary. Please see the following for help with the Micro-Swiss hotend and the DDX v1: 1. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4561002; 2. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4638420; and 3. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784841. Here is the DDX (v2/v3) adapter for the Dragon and Dragonfly hotend: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761213/comments Here is the DDX (v2/v3) hotend adapter for the Nova hotend: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835773 Here is the DDX (v2/v3) hotend adapter for the Copperhead hotend: https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddx-adapter-for-copperhead-screw-mount/ Here is the DDX (v2/v3) hotend adapter for the Mosquito/mosquito magnum hotends: https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddx-adapter-for-mosquito/ Here is the DDX (v2/v3) hotend adapter for the Micro-Swiss hotend: https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddx-adapter-for-micro-swiss-all-metal/ Here is the DDX (v2/v3) hotend adapter for the Creality Hotend: https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddx-adapter-for-cr-10-ender-hotend/ This was the hotend setup I used for the creality heatsink and copperhead heat break and copperhead heat block: This hotend setup consisted mostly of a Slice Engineering copperhead. Here are the parts I tried to use for this hotend setup: 1. Creality Hotend Heat Sink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHDMWQ4/; 2. Slice Engineering Copperhead™ Heat Break - C-E: https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/copperhead-heat-break?variant=36827917713570; 3. Slice Engineering Copperhead™ Hot Block: https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/copperhead-hot-block; 4. Boron Nitride Paste: https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/boron-nitride-paste; 5. 50W Heater Cartridge: https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/50w-heater-cartridge; 6. Thermistor: High Temperature: https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/thermistor-high-temperature; 7. Nozzle Torque Wrench™: 1.5 Nm: https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/nozzle-torque-wrench-1-5-nm; 8. Plastic Repellent Paint™: https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/accessories/products/plastic-repellent-paint; and 9. Vanadium™ Nozzle: https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/vanadium-nozzle?variant=29783462510664. I am using a Micro-Swiss hotend setup, now. I am using the following for the Micro-Swiss hotend [THIS IS MY PRESENT HOTEND SETUP]: 1. I bought the Micro-Swiss all metal hotend from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C). 2. I replaced the Micro-Swiss heat block with one from the Mellow Store on Aliexpress called "Mellow - CR8 CR10 3D Printer, Plated Copper Heating Block, for Micro Swiss Hotend MK8 Nozzle" from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33051274625.html. This heating block has an additional hole for a cartridge thermistor or PT1000 sensor. The Miro-Swiss heater block only has a location for a glass bead thermistor. 3. I am using the 24V, 50W heater cartridge from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SYZ3LGB). 4. I am using the "Mellow - 3D Printer Parts, NF 450C High Temperature Thermistor Cartridge for Ender 3" from the Mellow Store on Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33050930805.html). 5. "Micro Swiss MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistant Nozzle (MakerBot, CraftBot, Creality, CR10, Ender 3, Ender 5, Tevo Tornado) .4mm" as the nozzle from (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DJY52CC) If you want to mount a 3mm LED inside the fan ducts on both sides use the following files: 1. R.STL; 2. L.STL. If you want just the fan ducts WITHOUT the 3mm LED port then use the following files: 1. R_no_LED.STL; 2. L_no_LED.STL. You can buy 3mm LED from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VH7P3B4/ Additional Parts Needed for my setup: You may use a drill to enlarge the holes (for M3) so you will be able to screw everything together. I used an M3 tap to enlarge the plastic holes. How I put together the Fan Ducts: I printed the following fan ducts files: 1. R_no_LED.STL; 2. L_no_LED.STL; and 3. Mid.STL. I use two 4020 Fans which run at 24 VDC and mounted them to the top of the two fan ducts by using eight (8) M3x25 screws. For the 4020 fans I used "SUNON MB40202V2-0000-A99 Fan, 24 VDC" fans that I had previously bought from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084ZNAU0. But they may no longer be available but any 24VDC 4020 size Fan will work (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3CT33J). To connect the the fan ducts (R_no_LED.STL, L_no_LED.STL) to the "Mid.STL" piece I used four (4) M3x6 screws. To attach the "Led Stripe Holder for Petsfang Ender3/CR-10", "40mm_crosshair_full_fan_cover.stl"; a 4010 Fan; and "Mid.STL" pieces to the front DDX SLS housing piece, I used three (3) M3x22 screws and one (1) M3x18 with M3 nut. You can choose any fan cover you like but it must be flat or it will hit the BLTouch mount, I got my fan cover [40mm_crosshair_full_fan_cover.stl] from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802474. You can use any "4010 Fan, 24VDC" you like (https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-40x40x10mm-Brushless-Extruder-Makerbot/dp/B07DB5H6K1). How I put together the BLTouch: I bought this BLTouch from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FR2LLZP). The BLTouch manual can be found at https://5020dafe-17d8-4c4c-bf3b-914a8fdd5140.filesusr.com/ugd/f5a1c8_d40d077cf5c24918bd25b6524f649f11.pdf For my BLTouch mount I printed the following file: 1. from (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588657) "BLTouch Mount 40mm Hydra Fan Duct" but I renamed the file and set the dimensions in millimeters: BLTouch_Mount_40mm_fan_Hydra_40mmInXaxis.stl; For mounting the BLTouch I attached it to the bottom two screws of the extruder motor that is a part of the DDX housing. If you attach the BLTouch mount to the top two fan screws the BLTouch will not be high enough. The BLTouch must be higher than the hotend nozzle. I used two M3x25 screws to replace the bottom two screws on the extruder motor that came attached to the DDX housing. I used the following tools to help setup the BLTouch: 1. Bondtech DDX print fan height tool [nozzle_fanduct_offset_2mm_v1.stl] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683861); 2. BLTouch Video on YouTube from Teaching Tech called "BLtouch for any 3D printer - Comprehensive step by step guide": please see this video so you can adjust the height of your BLtouch properly (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF060dBEnfs&t=186s). I used a 3mm hex Allen key to measure the distance to the bottom of the BLTouch probe arm while the nozzle was on a sheet of paper (the distance between the tip of the nozzle to the bottom of the BLTouch probe arm can be between 2.3mm - 4.3mm. So if a 3mm hex Allen wrench can slid underneath the BLTouch probe arm and the bottom of the BLTouch arm touches the 3mm hex Allen wrench then you are good to go. How I put together the DDX strain relief and DDX ADXL345: For DDX strain relief I downloaded the following file from "Bondtech DDX Strain Relief and Mosquito Magnum Adapter" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898438): 1. DDX_Strain_Relief.STL. For the ADXL345 3-Axis Digital Acceleration Mount I downloaded the following file from "Bondtech DDX ADXL345 Mount" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4782635): 1. DDX_ADXL345.stl. For wire management of the Direct Drive for the DDX I downloaded the following file and purchase the following piece from Bontech: 1. Extruder_Bracket_Wire_Tie_Down.stl [Bondtech DDX Ender 3 Wiring Adapter] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4730923); 2. DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max for $16 (https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddx-v3-tube-mount-for-cr-10s-pro-max/) my filament path comes from a heated filament box that resides next to the left side of the printer so I will use a reverse bowden tube to guide the filament to the direct drive head. The DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max part is used just to make it easier to feed the filament to the tool head. The ADXL345 is used by Klipper firmware for input shaping and can reduce any ringing the printer might experience. You can purchase the ADXL345 from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HLP1MPY. If you do not use Klipper or input shaper than you will not need this part. But be aware the length of M3 mounting screw will change since you will not be mounting the ADXL345 mount part. I first took a M3 nut and placed it on the screw to be used in hole on the right of the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part when looking at the side that contains the countersunk screw holes. On the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part, you will see that there are three mounting holes that line up with the back DDX housing. If you hold the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part where the up facing surface is the surface with the screws holes reside you will see three holes (one hole is to the left, one hole is in the middle toward the bottom of the part, and one hole is to the right). These holes line up with the holes on the rear or back of the DDX housing. The right hole on the rear of the DDX housing does not have an M3 nut slot to help with mounting the DDX_strain_relief part. I also took out two extra square nuts that came with the DDX from the parts zip lock bag and slid them into the Left hole's slot and the middle hole's slot on the rear of the DDX housing. I took the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part and used my Dremel tool to shaved down the standoff that corresponds to the rear DDX housing hole on the right. So when you flip the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part over, you will be using the Dremel tool to remove the stand off on the left side of the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part. The right hole will hold a screw with nut (M3x25). You must put the nut on the screw after the screw has been placed in the hole on the right. The screw will go into the hole on the right on the back of the DDX housing and the nut will tighten up against of the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part from the back side. This will help to stabilize the "DDX_Strain_Relief.STL" part. I used three (3) M3x25 screws and four (4) M3 washers to attach the DDX_ADXL345 and DDX_Strain_Relief parts to the rear of the DDX housing. I place one washer on all three screws and the last washer went on the the screw that will be used for the middle hole. Wait until the M3 nut you glued is dried (the one place over the hole on the right). Before you attempt to attach DDX strain relief part to the rear of the DDX housing, I would try to screw one of the M3x25 screws into the glue on M3 nut to ensure that the bolt will go through the glue on M3 nut. Attach the three M3x25 screws with washers to the DDX_ADXL345 and DDX_Strain_Relief parts. The DDX_ADXL345 part will sit above of the DDX_Strain_Relief part. I would start with the right screw to see if it will go in part of the way. The ADXL345 board will be mounted to the DDX_ADXL345 part. Mount the ADXL345 board to the DDX_ADXL345 part AFTER you mount the DDX_ADXL345 part. Here is a place to learn about the ADXL345 board https://learn.adafruit.com/adxl345-digital-accelerometer and https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html. You will need six additional wires that will run from the raspberry pi to the tool head to be able to use the ADXL345 board with the Klipper's input shaper. I screwed in the "DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max" part to the empty extruder motor bracket on my Ender 3. I placed the left part of the "Extruder_Bracket_Wire_Tie_Down" part on top of the left side of the "DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max" part. I used a Black plastic stand off I bought from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V49P2QL) called "180M3Black" and used the shortest hex standoff to level off the "Extruder_Bracket_Wire_Tie_Down" part. I used three (3) M3 screws (M3x8; M3x12; and M3x20) and two (2) M3 nuts to affix the two parts to the empty Ender 3 extruder bracket. I used an M3x8 screw to a fix the "DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max" part leg that was closest to the Z-extrusion. The screw was place in from underneath the extruder bracket and then up into the leg of the "DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max" part that is closest to the Z-extrusion. I then place the 6mm Black hex standoff in the appropriate hole and used one of the M3 nuts to secure the hex standoff. I then used an M3x12 screw to secure the end of the "Extruder_Bracket_Wire_Tie_Down.stl" part into the Black Hex standoff. I used an M3x20 screw and nut to secure the other end of the "Extruder_Bracket_Wire_Tie_Down.stl" part on top of the "DDX Tube Mount for CR-10(S) Pro/Max" part and down into the extruder bracket. How I put together the hot-end LED Light ("Led Stripe Holder for Petsfang Ender3/CR-10"): I downloaded the following file for the Hotend LED mount from "Led Stripe Holder for Petsfang Ender3/CR-10" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2946454): 1. LEd_Stripe.stl I bought my LED lights, 24VDC from PrinterMods. It is called "ULTIMATE LED LIGHTING KIT FOR 3D PRINTERS - HOT END + V-SLOT KIT" (https://printermods.com/products/ultimate-led-lighting-kit-for-3d-printers-hot-end-v-slot-kit). I also bought an extra kit for the hotend light. I used two lights strips on the hot end light bar mount. One of the hotend LED strips come in the "ULTIMATE LED LIGHTING KIT FOR 3D PRINTERS - HOT END + V-SLOT KIT". I bought this kit to get the second light, "LED LIGHTING KIT FOR 3D PRINTERS - HOT END VERSION" (https://printermods.com/products/led-lighting-kit-for-3d-printers-hot-end-version). Buy the 24V version for all LED kits from https://printermods.com/. I mounted the "Led Stripe Holder for Petsfang Ender3/CR-10" mount by attaching it to the bottom two screws of the 4010 heatsink fan and upper right corner of the 4010 heatsink fan. The previous stated M3 screw lengths take into account the thickness of the "Led Stripe Holder for Petsfang Ender3/CR-10" (they were two (2) M3x22 and one (1) M3x18 with M3 nut). The upper right corner of the 4010 heat sink fan DOES NOT have a hole that goes all the way through to the DDX (v2/V3) rear housing. Therefore to mount the "Led Stripe Holder for Petsfang Ender3/CR-10" you will need to place one (1) M3x18 screw through the upper right screw hole of the LED mount before mounting the LED mount. You will also have to place the M3 nut onto the M3x18 screw before you screw the LED mount onto the DDX (v2/v3) rear housing. This M3 nut will stop the M3x18 screw from falling out. Miscellaneous Parts: I downloaded the following file to cover the top hole of the DDX extruder so filament stuff would not fall in from "Bondtech DDX Gear Cover (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628966): 1. Bondtech_DDX_Feed_Cover.stl. To extend the wiring for my Ender 3 Pro Printer so that I can separate the electronics from the 3D printer I bought two (2) sets of "Creality 3D Printer X Y Z Axis Stepper Motor and Limited Switch Endstop Cable for Cr-10 CR-10S CR-10 Mini (Pack of 3)" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T245QVF) from amazon and one extension kit from printermods called "CREALITY 3D PRINTER WIRING EXTENSION HARNESSES (50CM+)" (https://printermods.com/products/ender-3-wiring-extension-harness). I first solder the two sets of wires I bought off of Amazon together. Ensuring that the second Motor wires were not crossed (but straight through connects). Then I solder the extension kit onto extended Amazon wire set. While I was doing this upgrade I also separated out my electronics from the Ender 3 Pro frame, here are the objects from Thingiverse I used to accomplish this: 1. "AIO Electronics Enclosure (SKR/Stock + RPI 3/4 + MeanWell-350 + 2Mosfets)" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4405355); 2. "Ender3 Stock Board Chassis No Spacers" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777735); 3. "Right side mounting for relay, 40mm fan, and slot for Pi Camera cable" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787329); 4. "SKR 1.3 + RPI 4 Frame Without Spacer AIO Electronics Enclosure" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4772953); 5. "SKR 1.3/1.4 Honeycomb Chassis" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4924411); 6. "BTT piTFT50 V2 Adapter Plate for AIO Electronics Enclosure" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948847). The instructions on how I put the All-In-One case together is part of another repository on Thingiverse and can be found at [yet to be added](). Here is the adapter I made for the Bigtreetech PITFT50 v2.0 display screen so it could be mounted to the AIO Electronics Enclosure called "BTT piTFT50 V2 Adapter Plate for AIO Electronics Enclosure": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948847 Here is the adapter I made for the Bigtreetech PITFT50 v1.0 display screen so it could be mounted to the AIO Electronics Enclosure called "BTT piTFT50 V1.0 Adapter Plate for AIO Electronics Enclosure": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948356

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