ButtonBox
Description
Strange how a thingiverse search for such a basic thing as a simple push button left me so frustrated and only a button box for OctoPrint came at least close. (Universal Buttonbox for OctoPrint )[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4567163] by Matereo. It wasn't generic and there's some bad spell on the .stl, prusaSlicer couldn't slice it and the print was freakish. So I reverse engineered and rebuild it from scratch. A second source of inspiration was another remix, [Octoprint Buttonbox](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4571839) My take on the topic is meant to lie flat on the back , has 8 buttons (big light, spot light, unload, load, pause, resume, restart, stop) and calling OctoPrint commands is only the first role it will play. This is meant as an MQTT button, comes with a mount for an d1 mini and can do all the things an Hue or tradfri remote can do, and then some. Of course it needs some programing of the mcu Meanwhile, almost every room in my flat has a buttonBox of it's own and there are 2 updates / variants on this thing you may want to compare: - [ButtonBox v2](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4942660) - [ButtonBox mini](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4982446) The list of files includes some variants, the top lid with my choice of icons or plain, the icons as standalone for easier modifying. The case with usb cut out, with a cutout for a flat cable or plain. The bottom plate with a mount for a D1mini or plain. Dimenions: 84 x 42,4 x 20 mm. Walls are 2mm thick so it's quite sturdy. The top lid, however, is filigran. The tactile buttons are 6 x 6 x 5 mm. I may add elements like rounded corners or alternative icons or a dimmed LED inside later. The d1Mini - mount is designed for the ones with a metal cap, it's that cap in fact which holds the chip in place. You'll have to solder the cables directly into the breakout contacts (aka no dupont) or it won't fit in. Slicing it in Cura worked much better for me than prusaSlicer (which left gaps open at critical places). The top lid benefits from some color changing, I printed it with 3 colors of PLA, transparent for the first three layers, signal color (red, blue,...) for the next three, the rest in case color. Turns out that the icons should better not be directly above the buttons as the additional 0,6mm does interfere with the button behavior. And as of the functions, load/unload could well be combined into a Change Filament call. similarly, Pause/Resume to Pause-toggle. So if you need more functions, that's a start. I added a new element, tpu_bottom_mat. It's not really required but makes the remote feel much better in use cause the flex bottom eases out those miniscule but still feelable irregularities the screws or little blibs add to the thing. I printed it with 5% infill so it is as flexible as possible, but my tpu is on the hard side. On the d1 mini you can use the GPIO 0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 12, 13, 14, looks like eight is the maximum of possible buttons to directly connect. One side of the button connected to the pin, the other to GND. Turns out that DATA signals on the usb cable can result in wrongly reported clicks of the button on GPIO3. Drop me a message if you need help with the programming.
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