Deconstructed Puzzle Cube
Description
The previous print-in-place design was quite an ambitious 36 hour print, sensitive to clearances and elephant's foot. It was a lot to ask for an all or nothing chance at success. This version is designed to be printed in separate components and assembled. The aim is to produce a version suitable for SLA printing in separate pieces, though this one is still for FDM. Print at 0.2mm layer height (less important now, only really applies to the core or not at all for the alternate core). [Older video explaining mechanism](https://youtu.be/H0MJJPkx5ls) Will put together an assembly video soon, but it's pretty self explanatory and reversible (see pictures). Some [action](https://youtu.be/2z16ZcBzRgo) [shots](https://youtu.be/xZKqoLNoAgk). Note: Parts are in assembled position, not the ideal printed layout. I would suggest flipping the "upper" shell over. For the dials, I prefer a small support disk by enabling support interface at 100% or just print internal side down. Following over-extrusion, "Z" seams are most likely to cause binding issues with moving parts. Random Z Seam Alignment may help. The photos form kind of an assembly sequence but could use some explanation. There's your first puzzle. Firstly the dials are inserted into each of the outer shells, and retaining rings press fit to keep them in place but turning freely. Some light sanding or scraping might be required to take off any sharp or squished edges for a good fit. Mine have come loose from repeated disassembly - a couple of drops of glue might help. Next the internal sliding cylinder is fitted over the "bottom" (larger) maze and manipulated to the start of the maze until it sits flush as shown. Note orientation of the small outer fins towards the "bottom". Now the core goes in, careful of orientation with the spinning fins towards the "top" or smaller maze half. Insert with fins aligned to the gap until the halfway point where they also align with the notch which allows them to be rotated in place and captured inside the internal tracks. The trick for inserting the core into the second half (which I don't have a photo for) is to pull it out so half protrudes, turn to align the protruding fins with "fingers" of the first half so they can both be inserted into the gaps of the second half until again the fins are aligned with the halfway notch and can be rotated into position inside the corresponding internal tracks. Now the whole puzzle can be closed, rotating the "top" dial until it closes completely. Further rotating the "top" dial 180 degrees allows the bottom dial to turn, engaging the locking mechanism. For the (optional) spring, I have found 5mm OD x 120mm compression spring to be a good size. It doesn't open the box completely, but allows for a length of bamboo skewer or similar to keep it straight long enough to close the box. Longer springs will bow outwards when compressed and need some kind of telescoping structure to keep them centred before the box closes around it. As for finishing, it is designed for painting and sanding back to reveal detail. I'm thinking instead of paint I will try some kind of low shrinkage resin with pigment powder to fill the low spots. This should allow for a polished flat surface completely hiding any layer lines.
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