Cotton Swab Box ("Q-Tip"), approximately 170 count
Description
Hello internets. I was looking for a box that was roughly the size of a classic "small" Q-tip 170ct box. Kinda came up empty in my searches, so I made one. The tolerances on this are a bit tight. The tolerance on the Y axis is slightly higher than that of the X-axis. This is not because I am baking in design issues with my own printer's tolerances; it seems that, because of the height of the box lid (oriented as such to avoid supports), something happens to the tolerances from the bottom to the rather high finishing top and it drifts about 0.20mm. I think it's something to do with plastic shrinkage. I don't know for sure, but my printer was printing the ID of the box within 0.02mm on the bottom, but by the time it reaches the top, it's out by about 0.23mm. So I had to compensate for that in the design, otherwise I'd be wasting a ton of plastic on support material by changing the orientation of the lid. Please do not expect anything stored in this box to be "food safe". Even if you use "food safe filament" and a "food safe hotend", you're still dealing with the ridge lines inherent in 3D prints, and you have to handle the cotton swabs from your fresh box to put them in this box. I'm using this for my lab, I don't need sterility. This design would not be considered sterile. Use at your own risk. I printed this at 0.32mm layer height (0.288mm first layer). The tolerances are tight (0.25mm on X, 0.5mm on Y, see note above as to why they vary). I used eSUN PLA+. If you print in another plastic, or your printer is not tightly calibrated, expect that the tolerances might be too tight and your box may not slide together when you're done. YMMV. If you get weird print artifacts with every other layer, it's because the walls are so thin. and are not a multiple of a 0.4mm nozzle. Disable combing (or "avoid travelling through holes") on your slicer. Basically, what happens is your nozzle travels 'dry' over too far of a distance to avoid trying to cross the boundary, depending on how your slicer produces the output, and that can cause the nozzle to basically run dry after the travel. It's not related to retraction, in this instance. NOTE: For some people, you may find the bed adhesion tricky with the "lid". You might need to print this on a raft. There is very little contact to the bed on the lid design in this orientation, and if your nozzle bumps the lid whilst printing and knocks it off the bed plate, you might have serious repercussions, possibly damaging your printer. Know the limits of your printer, and work accordingly. In my case, I can print this without a raft, but you may not be so lucky. Print at your own risk, yadda yadda. Have fun.
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