Octodash Enclosure (Pi4 + BigTreeTech 5" Screen + E3v2) [custom parts required]

Description

After about 6 months of printing a month of Fusion experience, I decided to tackle an Octodash install. I designed and printed an enclosure for a [BigTreeTech 5” touchscreen](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FD2YZ23/), Raspberry Pi 4, and 40mm fan. Inspired by [this great concept](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4594908) (discovered [on Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/octoprint/comments/lepagv/using_raspberry_pi_4_octoprint_to_run_ender_3/)), I eventually re-conceived the overall design and approach. **[NB: This build requires some custom wiring and specific parts.]** To be fair, the original enclosure is great and prints well without any modification. I just wanted to fine tune it a bit to overcome a few annoyances and to customize it for my setup: * My main quibble was the lack of cable management. To be fair, that’s more a function of the hardware than the original enclosure design. But I just didn’t like having a data cable (through a [BLough](https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/power-blough-r-pi-usb-power-blocker/)) coming out of the side, with power and the PiCam ribbon cable coming out of the back, and all from the top of the panels. * I wanted a steeper angle for the face (changing it from ~30° from the floor to 55°). This also allowed me to make the back (rather than bottom) panel removable, which helped a ton when it came to wiring. More below. * I wanted a way to switch power to the Pi and to control the fan. I also wanted to use an independent power source for the fan so it didn’t draw amperage from the Pi. * I realized that with better ventilation, the fan didn’t need to run the whole time. So, I added side and bottom venting and printed the back panel with open infill. * Finally, I addressed some fit and finish issues with the original design: thick black screen margins, uneven bezel width, fan centered (rather than placed asymmetrically over the Pi’s main heat-sinks), etc. When all was said and done, I got the screen fully contained (no more black margins), the bezel even all around, ventilation improved, switching accomplished on the removable back panel, and data, camera, and two power sources all running through a single cord sheath running from the bottom of the back panel. **Here’s details on the wiring/cabling:** 1. I moved from a PiCam to a [Logitech C270](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FHO5Y6). I’m happier with the picture quality, and prefer to have a USB rather than ribbon cable. It's mounted with a [custom arm I designed.](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4809662) 2. With the cam on USB, I transitioned to a [USB hub](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L32B9C2/) with a single USB connection to the Pi. The camera and printer data cables plug into the hub, the latter through the BLough. 3. To save horizontal space in the case, I used the lowest profile 90-degree USB plug I could find. This required a DIY setup that combined a very slim [male L plug](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088LHWXVN/), [ribbon cable](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SLQWTVY/), and [female jack](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088LT1HG4) (see pics). All told, the setup required only 10.5mm of margin to the right of the Pi. 4. For power, I used two [5V switched power adapters](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VFDYNL4). One wires to the Pi’s power pins using a [JST connector](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4ZBBC4/). The other uses a JST to connect to the 5V [Noctua 4010](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA/). 5. I replaced the OEM power switches from the adapters with panel-mounted micro switches. Both wire to a [DPST switch](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QS8K8T2/). The Pi power comes directly off one pole of the switch, while fan power goes through a secondary [SPST switch](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018FHB0H6/). This setup allows the fan to be controlled independently, and the main switch to power down the Pi, screen, and fan all at once. **TL;DR: I over-engineered a box to run Octodash and Octoprint with a minimal footprint and single cable run. And I’m really pleased with the results!** ********** **PRINTING/FILE NOTES:** * Three files are included -- an STL for the case, an STL for the back panel, and a Fusion F3D file. * Print the enclosure with the faceplate (bezel) on the bed. * Print the back panel with 15% zig zag infill, no top/bottom layers, and about 8 total walls. This will create a vented but stable plate. * I tried my best to organize the Fusion timeline/workflow, but DM me with any questions. It's build **parametrically**, so it should be easy to adjust angles/venting/sizes/etc. I was sort of a beginner to Fusion when I made this, so there could be some anomalies or inefficiencies in the file.

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