Yokai Medal Holder
Description
I made a Yokai Medal holder for my kids, and thought I'd share... For a successful print, consider the following: This object prints in place. The hinge is self supporting as configured, but your printer had better be on point or you'll wind up wasting a lot of plastic. Here's what to watch out for: Squareness: If your rig is not square, then when you go to close the clamshell, the halves will not line up. THIS IS NOT THE SAME THING as bed leveling. You need your bed to be level, but also, if the upward motion is not 90 degrees to the xy plane, you will run into problems. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it needs to be close. I'm speaking mostly about bedslingers and corexy systems here, but technically it's possible to have a problem on any printer not set up correctly. Scale: do not scale the model, or the medals will likely not fit. Wall Thickness: I used 4 walls, and 2 was too thin. If you go too thin, you risk the shell cracking. Make sure you are using enough heat to get good bonds between layers. Retraction: The hinge is a close fit. My Ender 3 had no problem handling it accuracy wise, but make sure retract is set to between 5mm and 2mm. Any lower and your print will retract after every line. If your printer does not retract when moving from one half to the other, the whiskers will cause the hinge to lock up solid. Consider making a small test with about 3 segments of hinge, and you should know if it's going to print OK. Bridging: Make sure you've got bridging turned on, or drooping filament will make the openings too small for a medal to insert into the slot. Support: The roof needs support. Use support blocking to avoid trying to support the areas that should be fine with bridging. Support only the roof and the clasps as shown in the pic. Hinge pin: This hinge is designed for a 2.5mm stainless rod. These are commonly available from Amazon and others, and are sometimes used as axles for small RC cars. Cut to length and sand the ends to allow smooth insertion. It will likely need a few light swats with a hammer. DO NOT BEND THE ROD as you are inserting or it will bind the hinge. I'm particularly happy with the bas relief. It's my first attempt at that, and I think it went well. I have also provided the model without the bas relief so you can do your own if you like. I got the source height maps from filecnc.com. I used the Image to Lithophane site to make STLs with a curve (160 degrees or so) then Windows 3D Builder to manually scale and merge. Have fun.
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