CR-6 SE X Axis Cable Chain

Description

I fancied cghildreth's cable chain, but there were a few flaws in it. The most egregious one the sagging and the chain spontaneously coming loose due to the weight. This was remedied in the original design by adding a "Hot End Retainer Clip" to prevent the chain popping loose. But this is just treating the symptoms, not the problem. The real problem with both the sagging and the popping out of the links in the original design is due to the conical couplings. These create both a high amount of sag, and the coupling strength between the links is very poor. I have remedied this by changing the conical couplings to cylindrical ones. This both eliminates the risk of links coming loose (I promise - you will not be able to pull these redesigned links apart no matter how hard you try!), and it reduces sag to a nearly negligible amount. (I still constructed the links with a "quick-coupler" for easy assembly.) So there is no longer any need for any retainer clip. Next - in my own setup I also use Riddeen's vertical Y axis chain (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4786780). cghildreth's chain is mounted too far away from the gantry to fit behind Riddeen's y axis chain. So I remixed the Filament Guide With Cable Chain Link to fit inside the Y axis chain. I also moved it up as far as it can go while still allowing the arm of the extruder to go clear. At the other end of the chain, I lowered the X Carriage Body as far as it could go. There is still a couple of mm height difference between the two ends of the chain, but it is not a concern over the entire length of the chain. If anything, it helps to eliminate any (minimal) sag in the chain. I also redesigned the Bowden tube holder to fit a Capricorn tube better, and repositioned it to align with my Micro-Swiss all-metal hotend. If this doesn't fit your setup, just slice it off before you print it. (EDIT for clarity: The holder only keeps the tube upright; once you have clicked the tube into the holder, the tube runs freely up and down within it, and does not interfere with the bed levelling.) The original links are also designed to be able to "bend over backwards", which makes the chain go around in a big bend. I like a more "industrial" look to my chain, so on the one hand I redesigned the links to stay straight when the chain is flexed back, and on the other I redesigned the mounts on both ends to stay at a permanent 90 degree angle. The movement of the chain is so much more satisfying now. There were also some errors in the internal dimensioning of the link couplings that I have corrected to help the links move more freely. You will have to orient everything to lie flat in your slicer. The cable chain mount should be printed with the link tabs up top. You will need to print 17 links/closures, and one each of the others. You’ll need internal supports for the slot in the carriage body and the overhangs in the chain link mount. I printed the links with supports for the holes and the cylindrical couplings, but they may print without supports - I haven’t tried. The filament guide and link closures need no support. Be careful when mounting the first clip to the X Carriage Cable Chain Mount! Hold the cable chain mount firmly with your fingers on the outside as you squeeze the link in, and make sure it's the link that is squeezed inwards and not the mount outwards. The X Carriage Cable Chain Mount is mounted to the X Carriage Body with two countersunk 10mm M3 bolts. EDIT: I added a version of the X Carriage Body with no Bowden tube holder for those who prefer not using one.

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