Hemera mount for Tronxy X5SA Pro

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Hello, From a longer period of time I was modding my Tronxy X5SA Pro, and after fixing most of its issues I finally decided to replace its awful extruder along with over 50cm long Bowden tube. After successfully incorporating Hemera into my second machine, Sidewinder X1 and using it with good results I decided to install same on Tronxy. I wasn't satisfied with found over the Internet designs of mounting plate for that printer, closest one was one provided by cyberfooks1 under this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4855867 Unfortunately I found some issues with that design, especially that inverting Hemera 180 degrees cuts a lot of build volume from nominal 330x330mm due to Tronxy mechanics and overall design of the machine. Another issue (common with all other designs of such adapters) was that plate is held to the carriage only by two screws, causing its bottom to be prone to protrude and waggle during fast changes of motions on the Y axis. All of the above along with unfinished cooling duct of the cyberfooks1 design caused me to decide to try my own skills to make a plate for Hemera for Tronxy X5SA Pro, addressing all above issues, adding a bit of rigidity and tuning everything to be 3d-print friendly (without need to use pesky supports), keeping all cyberfooks1 nice ideas (like including holder for a filament sensor). So keeping his design as source of inspiration (for what I Thank him a lot), I started from zero, keeping normal position of the Hemera and fitting everything together. This design, beside usual two main screws holding the plate to the carriage, have also a bottom hook which holds bottom of the plate and prevents leaning forward. Added platform to support heavy chain with cables and prevent it from bending down. Removable Filament Sensor mount. And many other tweaks. I do not have any dedicated design for the print fan air duct yet, but because of Hemera hanging now "normally", You can use whatever design You find and like. This design keeps the 330mm build volume on the X axis, but cuts some 10mm on the Y due to the Tronxy mechanics! Those limits need to be included in the firmware! Recommended hardware: 2x 15mm diameter M5 washer 2x 40mm M5 cylinder-head screw 6x 6mm M3 cylinder or flat-head screw 2x 8mm M3 cylinder of flat-head screw 2x 14+mm M3 flat-head screw 1x 16+mm M3 flat-head screw 2x 10mm M4 flat-head screw 2x M4 nylock nut 2x M3 square nut Installation: Lower the bed, turn the printer off and plug it off from the socket. Detach belts from the X carriage. Then remove everything from the carriage leaving it completely bare. Detach cheapo titan clone from the back of the printer and remove overly long bowden tube. Detach cables box on the back of the printer. Pull back all unnecessary cables from the chain (thermistor, heater, hotend fan). Now take freshly printed Hemera mount plate. Using a screwdriver or other 3mm diameter tool punch the holes to clear bridging in 4 Hemera fixing points. Remove strings/debris which may obscure the passage. Take one 40mm M5 screw, nail it through washer and put into left hole of the plate (it will be impossible to install it with Hemera already attached to the plate). Now place Hemera on the table, and install plate to the back using 4 M3 6mm screws. If screws do not reach the nuts in Hemera body, it means bridging debris is too high and prevents screw from reaching. Clear it and try again. Having Hemera attached to the plate, insert 2 M3 square nuts on bottom of the plate. If heat block is getting in the way, use small tongs to insert them. Insert second M5 screw along with washer and attach it to the X carriage on the printer. Make sure bottom of the plate is flush with the bottom of carriage. Nail 2 M3 8mm screws into bottom holder and attach it to the plate from underneath. It should hold tight against the back of the carriage. Now screw Hemera fan to the extruder using provided bolts. Next is X endstop, attach it using 2 M3 6mm screws, making sure it touches guarding protrusions on the right (prevents sensor from moving right during soft poke it receives during homing). Holes for M3 screws are tight enough to hold without nuts. Loosely attach bed leveling sensor, later You will need to pose it some 2mm above the nozze tip. Now take plastic chain and attach it to the top of the plate using 2 M4 screws, better with washers. Those chains are made with huge differences so holes might be not perfectly aligned, just use a drill to make holes fitting. Screw 2 nylock M4 nuts on the back of the plate. Now time for most boring part of the job, so threading new cables through the chain. Thankfully E3D provides long enough cables to reach all the way to the box on back of the printer. Thread hotend cable, thermistor, hotend fan, extruder motor cable, and optional - Filament Sensor. For FS You will need to solder longer cable. On end take FS_holder and put filament sensor into it, two protrusions on the plate should fit into holes on the holder. Cut Hemera white bowden tube to length to fit with the sensor, and install the sensor on the plate. Finally attach belts to the X carriage and that part of the job should be done. Further You need to attach cables to the cables box on the back of the printer. And then flash a new firmware to the machine. I have tuned for Tronxy and Hemera Marlin 2.0.9.2 compilation almost done (just testing it), will post it soon to complete the process of modding the printer. Have fun!

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