Super Clean FPV Camera Mount for Rimzler-Dison

Description

UPDATE #2 Well so I finally got everything wired up and while V2 does snap in perfectly and still allow the top plate to snap onto the cross member, unfortunately about 1/4 of the view is obstructed by the ducts. I will redesign with v3 and upload it as soon as I can test it and make sure the camera is moved out far enough that the ducts are not obstructing the view. Also it may have been premature to say that regular TPU or even PETG would not work. After redesigning the first time there appears to be a little bit more wiggle room and I could see even a rigid filament being able to get in there, and then once the top plate is put on it would take up the extra room and keep the mount from coming off in a crash. I will print v3 out of a semi-flex and a rigid filament in addition to the NINJAflex and post how they do. UPDATE 12/19/21 (Already...) Use V2 unless you have a different top plate than the standard one that hooks to the frame in 4 places. I totally loaded only the frame into Fusion without the plate and didn't think about the fact that my design was interfering with the hooks, therefore interfering with the HD mounting hole. I redesigned with a notch to accommodate the hook and hopefully it works the same as V1 but I will not have time to test before posting. I just didn't want anyone to print V1 and (after realizing what an obvious rookie mistake I made) decide that the part wasn't going to work for them. I'm guessing most people need the one with the notch so that one is V2, I may even delete V1 later who knows. This is a super clean mount for a 14mm FPV camera to go on the Rimzler-Dison Cinewhoop. The catch, it has to be printed with NINJAFlex or some other very soft TPU. Regular TPU was very stiff even with low infill and 2 perimeters, and since you have to put the camera in before you snap it into the Rimzler-Dison frame, you run the risk of cracking the frame or damaging the camera getting it in there. Not saying you can't do it, I'm just saying it needs to be a very rubbery flexible filament like NINJAflex. What you do is print this out with a pretty low infill like 15-20% and 2-3 perimeters, no support. The way it loads in is the way it needs to lay on the bed. I added chamfers to accommodate overhangs so no support is needed at all. If your printer is tuned and you've got your NINJAflex settings dialed in just right, the details at 0.16mm layers should earn a little chef's kiss when its finished. Screw the camera in with the shortest screws that it came with (in my case it is a RunCam Racer Nano 2, a 14mm square body), and then put bottom into the frame first with the arch pressed as far it can go. Then take a little flat head screwdriver or something stiff and push on the edges to pop them over the straight crossmember of the frame between the ducts. That's it, you're done! It will stay there, as far as I know, on its own through pretty much any crash. It should be a tight fit once it's in there and there shouldn't be any wiggle room if yours comes out like mine. Don't worry about the screws looking like they can pop through the holes in the mount, once it's in place theres no way they can come out, they're just holding it in place in the mount which is wedged between the ducts now. The only downside I can find so far is that you can't make adjustments to the angle without taking it all the way out. I plan to update as soon as I can with a version that has the angle built in, so if there's any requests for specific angles leave them in the comments. I plan to do something like 20, 30 and 40 but I'm not sure what is the best when the camera is situated below the props like that (I'm used to tiny whoops). ******Some observations about NINJAflex:************ If you're new to printing and no one has told you yet, you will 115% need a direct drive to print NINJAflex with any consistency. Even if you are successfully printing TPU with a stock Ender or CR10 like I did right off the bat, this stuff is like wet spaghetti, for real. It has literally no rigidity to it as a strand of filament whatsoever, so even my Prusa Mini+ with about a 250mm Bowden tube (relatively short) has still never successfully completed a NINJAflex print. If anyone out there is doing it I'd love to know how, but so far I have to use my modded CR10S with a direct drive and even then I have to disable retraction completely, use a crazy extrusion multiplier like 1.3-1.5, and set my extrusion width higher than normal. Currently my max volumetric speed is set to 1.2, but I think I can creep it a little higher as I dial in the other settings, but NINJAflex also likes to clog the nozzle I think. It's like it reacts with other filaments or something so that even PETG at 245 or ABS at 250 clogs after I swap it back over unless I use the nozzle cleaning filament. I have gotten some successful prints with it through a Bowden but its very hit or miss and there's not much I could do to influence that one way or the other. Hopefully you found this Thing and my random editorial on NINJAflex entertaining if nothing else, dare I say useful even? If you enjoyed it or you're finding it useful please drop me a like or buy me a cup of coffee, I'd like to be contributing in this way more often so any bonus incentive would make that a more likely possibility. If I don't have a Patreon set up by the time you're reading this then you're off the hook I guess but hopefully I'll get all that set up soon.

Statistics

Category

Tags