Ender 5 Octopus Custom Case with 3 Point (Kinematic) automatic levelling

Description

UPDATED BED SUPPORTS (28 Dec 21) ------------------------------------------------------- This is a custom case for the Ender 5 series printers and is designed for use with a BigTreeTech Octopus motherboard. As I hate doing any kind of bed levelling, I have designed this to have 3 point levelling using indepdendent Z stepper motors. This is a standard feature of Marlin and uses Gcode G34 to perform the task - either manually, or during each print. As the custom designed case stretches front to rear (like the case for a Ender 5 plus), this is not compatible with the stock z motor assembly. Also, due to the design of the stock Ender 5 heated bed, you will need to either modify this design to work with it, or in my case, I replaced the bed with a 8mm aluminium toolplate (super flat), which measures 265mm wide by 235 deep. More details on this below. The included STL's are for the case (note this needs to be printed on a large format printer like the Ender 5 plus, as I couldn't be bothered to break the design down into smaller chunks suitable for the E5 bed), custom stepper brackets (you will need 3), and the kinematic mounts for the bed. Notes on printing and assembly ======================== Case ------ The front and rear are best printed using a 0.8 nozzle due to speed / size of print. Supports are not required if you have good cooling. If your cooling is not up to scratch, you may get some sagging on the cooling ducts at the front and rear. You can print this in any material you like. The case is designed to take 4 x 4010 fans - I use Noctua wired in 2 x series each as they are only 12v fans. The power supply sits in the middle as per the attached CAD drawing. For bolts, you will need a selection, most of which are easy to work out. To bolt the 2 parts of the case together you need M5x50mm cap head. I recommend drilling the outer case hole to 5mm, and the inner case hold to 4.5mm to ease assembly when screwing in the bolts. Power supply needs 2 x M4x15 cap heads Motherboard needs 4 x M3x8 button heads Fans need m4x20 self tapping screws (or you can use bolts if preferred) Hinge to top lid requires 3 x M3x15 cap head bolts Lid assembly requires 10 x M4x10 self tapping screws Note that the case includes mounting points for both a AC solid state relay (for use with mains powered bed), and 5v relay (which I use for controlling printer lighting) Bed ---- The included STL's assume you are using a bed with dimensions of 265x235 (wide/deep). The mounts have been designed with a Kinematic mechanism based on the Maxwell principle. As there are 3 mounting points, these are expected to be in the following locations on the bed: 1. Front left mount: 10mm from left edge of bed, 10mm from front of bed. Drill a 4mm hole (accurately!) 2. Rear left mount: 10mm from left edge of bed, 10mm from rear of bed. Drill a 4mm hole. 3. Right middle mount. 10mm from right edge of bed, centre point between front to rear. When drilling the holes, carefully measure then get a centre punch and hammer a small indentation. Pilot drill the hole with a 2mm drill before using the 4mm drill. This helps keep everyhing accurate. Even better, use a pillar drill if you have one. I used 8mm aluminium toolplate for this custom bed as it is super flat and not too expensive to buy. Once the 4mm holes are drilled, I recommend you finish them with a countersink to make everything neat. Then you need: - 12mm stainless steel balls with threaded centres (Ebay) - M4 (length depends on the thickness of your bed) countersunk bolts. - Suitable heated mat. I use a 240v AC / 700w bed for my printers. If you are using mains powered beds - please make sure you know what you are doing and YOU MUST PROPERLY EARTH THE BED AND THE PRINTER. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician or use a 24v item. If you get this wrong, it can kill so please don't take chances. If using a mains powered bed, I also recommend a suitable thermal fuse, and a high quality solid state relay. Do not use cheap Chinese items - these are known to sometimes fail in the closed position - meaning you will have a fire. Kinematic Mounts ----------------------- Please do some research if you do not understand the principle of kinematic mounts. I print these in the upright position to get as much accuracy as possible to the various holes and nut recesses. If you print like this, you will need supports. Best printed with a 0.4 nozzle. I recommend printing with ABS or another filament that will withstand high temperatures - as the bed is indirectly resting on the bed supports, these will get hot. I've printed mine with ABS, and regularly run my bed at 120 degrees C without any issues. To mount these, you will need: - 3 x 400mm 2020 aluminium extrusion - 3 x stock z stepper motors (and appropriate drivers) - 3 x M5/M8 coupling assemblies to go between stepper and rod - 3 x 400mm lead screws of the same specification & nuts - 3 x 400mm MGN12H linear rails - Stepper cables - Brackets / bolts to secure the 2020 extrusion to the frame - 6 x M4x20 stainless dowel pins (used for left hand side mounts) - 3 x 10mmx3mm magnets (optional) The exact positions of the 2020 extrusion will depend on how square your printer is, and how accurately you have drilled the holes in the bed. As a guide, the measurements are: - Front left extrusion: 46mm from inside edge of front left vertical rail - Rear left extrusion: 196mm from rear edge of front left extrusion - RIght extrusion: 156mm from inside edge of front right vertical rail You will need to adjust these later slightly when the bed is assembled. The balls need to fit perfectly in the v grooves of the bed mounts when level. See included picture for reference. Glue the dowel pins into the receiving locators in the bed mounts using super glue. If using the (optional) magnets, glue these in first. Bolt the leadscrew brass nut into place (M3 x 16 bolts and nuts). Bolt the stepper & mounts to the frame (M5 x8 bolts & t nuts) so they are centred to the 2020 extrusion. Assemble the bed mounts onto the linear rail (M3x10 cap heads) and assemble with the stepper, lead screw, etc and ensure everything is square and runs smoothly. Levelling ----------- Note that this requires some kind of probe so the levelling can take place. I use BLtouch but will work with any suitable device.

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