CHEAP XL Zero Play Guide Bars for table saw miter slot with M3 Hex Nuts STEP 3mf and FreeCAD files

Description

This is loosely based on the design from Bwolfey, but rebuilt from scratch and slightly modified in FreeCAD. I decided to make a version that used all M3 hardware and standard M3 Hex Nuts. I also made it as long as I can fit on a MK3S+ (when printed as a pair). My version has a longer range of adjustment and all of the angled slide surfaces are used to support the adjustment. The included FreeCAD file uses a spreadsheet to set the clearances and the overall length of the part. There is also a spreadsheet variable for your print bed's X and Y print plate sizes. If you open the Base part and enable visibility for the "PrintPlateRefSketch" you will be able to see how the part will fit on your build plate for a given size. I kept this simple. The part is anchored to the center sketch axis on one side so you still need to keep in mind that the actual print plate placement will need a millimeter or two more space. This reference just makes it easy to picture exactly how much room you have to mess with on a given printer. The shared parts are 285mm long which is about as long as can fit on a (X) 250mm * (Y) 210mm build plate. Be sure the parts have supports enabled from the build plate. I initially integrated single layer bridge supports in this design but after trying the supports in Prusa Slicer 2.4, the parts print better with the auto generated supports and this print requires tiny support structures for the hex nut and bolt head slots anyways. The quality of the slot overhang is quite important in this design. You do not need to know how to use FreeCAD in order to modify this part. Just open the FreeCAD file and double click on the file called "ss" in the "Combo View" > "Model" tab. If you enter a different value in the cell labeled "totalLength" it should work. This is not set up to be fool proof. It is just a simple way to make minor changes. The part has a total design thickness of 9.1mm. If someone needs a thin version for something like a Shopsmith, if you use 3mm thin hex nuts instead of standard, there should be enough room to remove 1mm from the outside faces of both parts using the cut feature of your slicer. Just note that on the "Top" there is one corner that is full height and will need to be cut off on the opposite side too. I did not have enough room on the build plate for a typical skirt around the part, but I feel like I need some amount of first layer priming beyond just the standard nozzle clearing start line. This is why I added a small single layer shape in the included 3mf file. Of course, just adding a shape is not enough to ensure that the slicer prints this first. So the shape has a modified setting to add an "Outer and Inner Brim" with the brim set to 2mm. This causes the shape to print first as a simple nozzle primer. I had good results from using M3 * 6mm button head screws for the sliders. I ended up using M3 * 20mm flat heads for the sled but had to make some deep countersink holes to make them work in 3/4in material. If I had had 25mm long screws in stock it would have been better. I have included STL mesh files, STEP part files for easy modification in any CAD software, 3mf for a slicer baseline example that can be used in most slicers (note: I use a 0.6mm nozzle on a MK3S+), and my FreeCAD file. Because the thingiverse "download all" feature was disabled, I have included a zip file with all the project files prepackaged. The MD5 hash for the zip file I created is: 492ffc2b2d929da020ed72694076afbf Finally, it takes time to document and upload a project. By liking, commenting, remixing, or posting "makes" we are creating a social return on a creator's time invested in us. No one likes the trackerware of the internet, but thingiverse has the least invasive, using "fastly," which is also tied to etsy. IMO it's far better than the rest of the 3DP sharing options that require Google or Amaz0n server access and user tracking. If you find any upload here useful or interesting please log in and make a free social return on the creator's investment in us. I can say first hand that I would be more motivated to take the time to share several projects, especially the larger ones if it seemed like others found them interesting and engaged with me more. I'm sure I am not alone in this sentiment. I do not participate in monotization of this content, so do not attempt to tip me or follow embedded links of any kind placed within this upload. -Jake P.S. If you do not know FreeCAD, but choose to modify the part as described using the spreadsheet, once you are done making changes, it is possible to simply highlight the part in the "Combo View" window on the left under the "Model" tab and then simply select File > Export, then set the output as a mesh format like STL. The resulting mesh may not have the resolution you expect. Alternatively, the models I uploaded here were meshed by navigating to the Mesh Design workbench in FreeCAD. Highlight the part in Combo View, then in Mesh Design use the "Create Mesh From Shape" button. My default meshing settings I use are the "Standard" tab with a "Surface Deviation" of 5µm and "Angular Deviation" of 5 Degrees. After the mesh is created, you can check if the mesh is a solid by highlighting it and using the Check Solid Mesh button. There is also a button for "Evaluate and Repair Mesh." If there are issues, this can be helpful. However, I did not experiance any issues with any of the simple parts in this upload. My default settings generated a solid error free mesh on the first try. Lastly, highlight the meshed part and select File > Export. GL

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