48v Electric Bike Battery Flat Top 18650

Description

In order to have the best experience buying and printing the parts for this free-to-download and 3D print electric bike battery – PLEASE ! Read all the instructions and requirements ! The 48 volt version of this e bike battery requires a 3d printer with a bed size of 287mm x 104mm x 25 mm tall. You probably will not be able to rotate it and print it 104mm x 25 x 287mm tall – It doesn't work that way , the sides will need a ton of support and making the sharp right 90 degree turn in midair will definitely fail. The 36 volt version of this e bike battery requires a 3d printer with a bed size of 233mm x 104mm x 25 mm tall. Rotating the print is also not recommended The 2 cell voltage booster pack is relatively small and can be printed on almost all 3d printers. It's size is 104mm x 86mm x 27mm . Rotating the print is also not recommended Note – Most 48v Chinese e bike controllers have 61 volt capacitors in them – this means at 61.1 volts they will most definitely break. Over - volting a Chinese 48 volt controller is only advisable 2 cells past 13s ( 13 cell in series ) for a total of 15s ( 15 cells in series ) . This means a 48 volt battery and a 2 cell voltage booster is the most currently supported by most 48 volt Chinese controllers for over - volting. This being said – We offer no such warranty of any kind. Lithium batteries are dangerous and should be treated as such . Short circuiting lithium batteries can lead to combustion and smoke inhalation . We offer and imply no such warranty to this product . We hold no liability to death , fire , shortage of life , damage to structure , damage to property , etc . It is advisable before you start to make a plan . This plan should include which parts you will print and use and what parts you need to buy online. The bike frame clamp might not work for certain frames ( We are in the process of acquiring more bike frames and making different frame clamps available) ; Should the frame clamp not work for the type of frame you have you will not need the DIN rail adapter , the frame clamp or any hardware for those 2 thingiverse pages. Should the frame clamp not work for your bike you will also not the din rail clip & two m4 x 20mm machine screws listed in Required Hardware on this page. The 36 volt and 48 volt batteries can use both button top and flat top 18650 cells , however to switch from on to the other you will have to change the contacts . Flat top cells are more readily available with cheaper options and great capacity . Button top cells offer more safety with some cells having integrated circuit protection or built in fuses – this can be important to safety . The cost for button top cells can be up to 5 – 10 times more for the cells over flat top when it comes time to buy the lithium batteries. A parts kit will become available that has all the required hardware except the Flat Top 18650 batteries and the 3d printed pieces Required Hardware The internal 18650 battery contacts are made by this company - https://www.keyelco.com/product.cfm/17-19-mm-Dia-Cell-Contacts/5207/product_id/14386 You'll need 2 -Mating Spring Contact: Part Number 5222 1 - Mating Button Contact: Part Number 5221 12 – 2 Cell Spring Contact, A Cell, 18650 Part Number 5215 All 14 of these parts can be ordered from either Mouser or Digi-Key by clicking the link “ Check Distributor Stock” on each part number page on keyelco.com and then clicking the shopping cart on either mouser or digi-key . The price for all 16 parts when I checked today (1/3/2022) was within 1 cent of each other @ $13.35 . The easiest way to navigate the keyelco website is putting in the part number in the search engine up top. You'll also need 1 - blue solder seal connector https://www.ebay.com/itm/174759906390?hash=item28b0808c56:g:4IgAAOSwQ~ZglDsD 1 - 10 or 11 inches of 12 or 14 AWG wire 1 - power connector of your choice with at least a 3 1/2” pigtail (xt60 with pigtails recommended ) 2 – M3 20 mm thumbscrews OR 2 – M3 20 mm machine screw (Phillips pan head preferred) 2 – M3 wingnuts OR 2 – M3 flange nuts 3 – Small zip ties (3 ½” or larger) 13 – Button Top 18650 batteries . All the same brand , style , make and capacity. . To mount the battery to the frame grip you will need the following 1 - DINM23LR DIN Rail Clip from https://www.winford.com/products/dinm20.php 2 – M4 x 20 mm Phillips Pan Head Machine Screws Assembly Charge all of your 18650 cells independently. This may take some time . You do not want to mix charged and uncharged cells together in a pack – this can lead to the pack getting destroyed. Fully charge all the cells so that their discharge voltage will be similar , so when you go to recharge the whole pack as 48 volt unit you will have even charging across all cells. Step 1A ( See picture 1A) Slide all of the 12 of the 2 cell spring contacts in place . Step 1B (See picture 1B) Not all the spring contacts will slide to the bottom of the spring holder position. Using a screwdriver or a stiff pointy object such as a large screw use an amount of force equivalent to trying to snap a pencil to slide the contact to the bottom of the contact position. You should have 2 spots left for the single contacts – one positive and one negative . Before sliding these 2 contacts in place , take a medium strength set of pliers and flatten the small “v” on the 2 sides of each contact. They don't need to be perfectly flat , but flattening them down some will help for easier insertion. There are two power connector pigtail holes cut in the bottom case – one goes through a corner to a battery contact spot – the other goes to a u-shaped ditch-like channel that leads to the back of the case. Determine which color of the pigtail needs to be inserted in each hole. Red is usually positive and black and usually negative. Make sure each the end of each wire is able to be spread out flat by making sure this is no tinning or solder on the end of each wire. Make sure there is an adequate amount ( 1/3” ) of exposed workable copper on the end of each wire. Insert the correct color of each pigtail into each hole. This is the most difficult step. You may require double or triple the required wire should you cut it too short. In this step you must solder seal additional wire to the pigtail for the wire you have just inserted into the U-shaped channel . The goal here is to have enough wire left over to be press fit behind the single contact and have no slack in the U-shaped channel. Having extra wire in the U-shaped channel will make it hard to shut the lid down properly on the bottom case. You may need additional solder seal connectors. Strip 1/2” insulation off the end of wire you want to solder seal to the pigtail in the u-shaped channel. Push the pigtail wire into the channel about 2 inches then using the u-shaped chanel as a guide , overlap the other wire over the 1/2” area of wire that has no insulation. Run the wire down to the corner through the u-shaped channel and leave about 3/4” to go into the groove of the corner contact location. At this point you will cut the wire where it will leave 3/4” of an inch, you will want to also strip 3/4” of insulation off of each end of this wire to be attached . Take the case , the pigtail , the wire you just cut, a lighter and a few solder seal connectors outside or to a well ventilated area with fan. Once again make sure the proper color of the pigtail is in the correct location. Slide a solder seal connector loosely onto the pigtail wire in the u-shaped channel. Take the wire you already cut and insert it into the other end of the solder seal connector so that the exposed copper parts are overlapping. Now make sure that the exposed overlapping copper are underneath the solder part of the solder seal and using a lighter seal the 2 ends together. The appearance of the solder seal connector should be shiny when you are finished. Fan out the ends of the pigtail wire and the wire in the u-shaped channel until they are flat in a fan shape. Push the flat fan shape of wire into each corner of the remaining 2 contact positions. Firmly (no hammering !) press each contact into the correct spot, you may require a metal tool to begin to press the contact in. In the corner with the original pigtail wire – using a screwdriver , make sure the insulated wire is pressed into the recess in the corner. This is important for fit and safety. Pull the pigtail end that is attached to the wire in the u-shaped channel until all the slack is out of the u-shaped channel. Zip tie both sides of the wire – where it enters the bottom case and where it enters the u-shaped channel. Make sure there is no wiggle room where the wire can be pushed or pulled out of place. Also you will need 1 zip tie for the other side of the pigtail where it enters the case. It is not advisable to hold the 48 volt battery pack by the power cord pigtail or pigtail wire . Carefully insert the batteries. Take a measurement with a multimeter. Your multimeter should read somewhere around 54 volts. If it is drastically lower you will want to check to see if a battery or batteries are inserted the wrong way. Should the voltage read around 54 volts or higher you are set ! Place the DIN Clip on the end of the top case. Align the 2 holes in the Din Clip with the 2 holes in the end of the top case and insert the m4 x 20mm machine screws through the plastic case so that they meet the din rail and thread into the din rail. Gently place the top lid onto the bottom battery case. Use your M3 hardware to fasten the top case to the bottom case. Congrats ! Sponsors I would like to thank Winford Engineering , Keyelco Electronic Components Corp. and BoltDepot.com for contributing to the success of this project . Thank You ! We could not have completed without your generous help ! https://www.winford.com/products/dinm20.php https://www.boltdepot.com/ https://www.keyelco.com/category.cfm/Slide-In-Battery-Contacts/Slide-In-A-Battery-Contacts/p/1039/id/1224 California Filament donated a ton of PETG filament and also educated me about PETG. https://californiafilament.com/collections/petg This ebay store sold me the solder seal connectors at discount rate. It is not a bad price and service was quick. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384643398844 Should you not have a 3D printer or not have one large enough for this print , the doors are open at my friends print shop on treatstock.com . Here's the link to his profile .He has printed about a dozen of these flawlessly. https://www.treatstock.com/c/shellback-workshop He is quick and knowledgeable and has good service . I'm sure he can get both halves printed and shipped priority mail to you for less than $50. Also I'd like to thank Sheldon Grant at Project3dprinters.com for mentoring me and proving me with 3D printing services . This is a Work-In-Progress - This is a new build as of 1/20/22 All Major issues have been sorted out.Most problems at this point are cosmetic. The joining problem between the upper and bottom halves has been fixed. I suspect before March 2022 this will be in final release and sometime before May 2022 I will have part kits ready on eBay ( I make about $1 off the parts , for those of you curious , the intended design of the parts kits is to keep those interested from having to buy quantities of 100's of parts when only 2 or 3 are needed, at $11 a parts kit I think your savings are about $39) Also keep an ear out for new bike clamps as we find a style to support your frame ! Be kind ! Tip please !

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